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Crud vs. corrosion on Ludwig Stainless Steel sheels

Posts: 17 Threads: 9

Hello forum!

I came across two late '70s Ludwig 14" x 24" stainless steel kick drum shells at a killer price, and I am currently in the process of cleaning the years away on the finish. I've done the standard steps of soap + water and metal polish on the shells, which immediately made a big difference. I noticed what looks like small white flecks of paint on the top of each shell, so I tried a little paint thinner on a sample spot, to no avail. I thought maybe it was calcium or lime buildup, so I tried some CLR on another spot and it did not work. The spots just seemed to get darker in color as I tried different removal methods. The closer I look at these spots, I'm wondering if they are actually corrosion into the stainless steel, rather than some sort of crud on top of the finish. I've attached a few pictures that hopefully illustrate what I'm dealing with. Has anyone else noticed similar issues with SS shells? Any solutions to remove or minimize the imperfection in the finish? Any input is greatly appreciated!

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Posted on 6 years ago
#1
Posts: 9005 Threads: 266

Feel the spots with your finger. Is it above the surface, or below? If above it can be removed, if below it looks like pitting and you'd have to polish it out as best you can.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 6 years ago
#2
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

From spacemanbill

Hello forum!I came across two late '70s Ludwig 14" x 24" stainless steel kick drum shells at a killer price, and I am currently in the process of cleaning the years away on the finish. I've done the standard steps of soap + water and metal polish on the shells, which immediately made a big difference. I noticed what looks like small white flecks of paint on the top of each shell, so I tried a little paint thinner on a sample spot, to no avail. I thought maybe it was calcium or lime buildup, so I tried some CLR on another spot and it did not work. The spots just seemed to get darker in color as I tried different removal methods. The closer I look at these spots, I'm wondering if they are actually corrosion into the stainless steel, rather than some sort of crud on top of the finish. I've attached a few pictures that hopefully illustrate what I'm dealing with. Has anyone else noticed similar issues with SS shells? Any solutions to remove or minimize the imperfection in the finish? Any input is greatly appreciated!

It`s pitting. The Chromium Oxide layer that forms on Stainless has been damaged by a Chloride substance. My guess is something spilled on it with salt in it, left to dry, the next time you wipe it clean, those pits will be under the salty substance that dried up.

It`s not easily repaired. It involves grinding and re polishing and getting the layer to form new again. The whole shell. A partial will show a blemish between shines.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 6 years ago
#3
Posts: 10714 Threads: 579

I have a buddy that probably can fix this, But it isn't cheap, Stainless steel are my all time fav drums.

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 6 years ago
#4
Posts: 135 Threads: 14

I'm in the final stages of refinishing lot of stainless marching shells. This is not an easy job. I've been doing this by hand and would not care to do it again.

Chronology of my process:

Planishing to remove dents and deep scratches.

320 grit sandpaper

400 grit wet sandpaper

600 wet

1000 wet

2000 wet

Buffing wheel in 2 stages of rouge.

It's tedious. Very tedious.

First pic shows the original condition on the left side and an early polishing attempt on the right side of the drum.

Second pic shows three stages of process (400,600,1000 grit) from top to bottom.

Third pic is the finished product

1964 Ludwig Downbeat Black Diamond Pearl (12,13,14,16,20)
1976 Ludwig Stainless Steel "Bop" (12,14,18)
1998 Ayotte "Ray Era" Wood Hoop Copper Sparkle (10,12,14,16,20)
Posted on 6 years ago
#5
Posts: 5295 Threads: 226

From Rotarded

I'm in the final stages of refinishing lot of stainless marching shells. This is not an easy job. I've been doing this by hand and would not care to do it again.Chronology of my process:Planishing to remove dents and deep scratches.320 grit sandpaper400 grit wet sandpaper600 wet1000 wet2000 wetBuffing wheel in 2 stages of rouge.It's tedious. Very tedious.First pic shows the original condition on the left side and an early polishing attempt on the right side of the drum.Second pic shows three stages of process (400,600,1000 grit) from top to bottom.Third pic is the finished product

Awesome results!! Great job!! I want mine to look like that someday!!

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 6 years ago
#6
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

Of all the materials on this planet, fun stops at Stainless steel. You`ll grow old trying to manipulate it. But they are fire proof.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 6 years ago
#7
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

From Rotarded

I'm in the final stages of refinishing lot of stainless marching shells. This is not an easy job. I've been doing this by hand and would not care to do it again.Chronology of my process:Planishing to remove dents and deep scratches.320 grit sandpaper400 grit wet sandpaper600 wet1000 wet2000 wetBuffing wheel in 2 stages of rouge.It's tedious. Very tedious.First pic shows the original condition on the left side and an early polishing attempt on the right side of the drum.Second pic shows three stages of process (400,600,1000 grit) from top to bottom.Third pic is the finished product

You did a fine job, all the right steps. I don`t blame you for not wanting the battle Stainless.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 6 years ago
#8
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116

Really great result Rotarded...

Congratulations..

Cheers

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 6 years ago
#9
Posts: 10714 Threads: 579

The process you went through is the way to do it, I also saw your post on facebook. well done !!!

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 6 years ago
#10
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