No but you have to protect the inside of the shell so you do need tape all the way around the top of the edges with paper inside the shells. You need the overspray gold on black to some extent. . It is not a distinct lihe.

Here's a shot of my paint set-up/turntable for Duco...

John

John, that really is a turntable! I have a good ol' lazy susan that should work just fine ( older plastic one ) Thankfully at work we have a giant roll of wax paper and more gaffer tape than you can shake a stick at. So should be quick and easy to avoid paint going on the interior & bearing edges.

Jay, lets see some pics of the project please.

Thanks John

So it's off to the local goodwill store this week.

In looking at my Duco snares it appears that the center stripe basically ends with a little overspray after the bottom holes for the lugs. I imagine it will take an upper, middle and lower application to get it just right?

Jay

We will definately need to compare notes on this. I'm back in CT this week and will reach out

Michael

I took my cue from custom car guys, when they do a paint fade (where colors blend or meet,) they will lay down the light color first (center stripe) then come down on it from both sides (from top to middle, bottom to middle) with the dark color. The center stripe on each drum should be the same width as the lug holes. (centralized Club Date lugs)

Better -many- light coats with light sanding in-between than just a few heavy coats. Top it off with a good clear coat sealer and they will look like they have a pro 'factory' paint job.

John

Haven't started the work yet. Gonna get in there with my snare one day this week. There will surely be plenty of photos.

Here's a little motivation/encouragement for you. This is how my 58' Clubbies came out...

John

Wow, these examples look great! Great job you guys. I know I will never attempt a Duco finish, but I still have one question to those of you who have done this...

Once the shell is fixed and stable on the turntable, wouldn't you have to clamp or mount the rattle can (or spray gun) in a fixed position in order to avoid changing it's distance and angle to the shell as the shell rotates? It seems like a hand-held can could easily change its position in relation to the shell resulting in an uneven line or too wide a spray...

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Mike

You have to angle and control the spray as you go, so hand-held is essential. I don't think you can get an even finish from something that is statically mounted although you do need a steady hand and a good eye.

Note for anybody that tries this... I sprayed the center stripes first, then I sprayed the dark color by starting at the bearing edge and sneaking up on the center stripe. As soon as the dark color kissed the edge of the center stripe I'd stop painting. Sand in-between coats with 00-00 (double-O gauge) steel wool. I put about 10 very light coats of paint on with sanding in-between. Finish with a quality clear coat and they'll look factory new.

John