Be very weary of these type of products. They often contain silicone or other polymers with a shorter Case history to study.

Quality waxes will not yellow and there shouldn’t be much residue, including around badges. Just like on a car, use a baby toothbrush to clean these areas.

Low quality waxes add products to soften it make it flash faster and remove easily. Usually petroleum products. High wax content and low “other” stuff is important. All waxes, regardless of price, are not created equal.

Wax a piece of glass with the product of your choice and see the result first hand. I personally would never entertain using any apply and walk away product.

You might be surprised just how many off the shelf waxes and sealants have silicones in them, and also other chemicals, polymers, solvents, detergent cleaners, other types of wax, etc. I'd guess both Meguiars and Mother's besides countless others are loaded with silicones.

Yes, these wipe on walk away sealants I mention in my previous post work effortlessly and cleanly on glass as well.

If I was going to choose strict "wax", my choice would probably be Renaissance. Not cheap, but this one will do the trick.

I only use Novus on wrap...

Cheers

I would avoid Reniassance on anything other than metal. It is not recommended for other materials and being petroleum based, may discolor or soften plastics.

I've always used Dawn in warm water on my wraps and Lemon Pledge on my lacquer shells and hardware. I've never used any other cleaners or waxes, and they always look great. I have a Premier Signia kit that I bought in 1996 that still looks brand new.

Here's an interesting article I've found on the subject. A couple of prominent drum techs share their takes and techniques.

https://www.musicradar.com/tuition/drums/drum-kit-maintenance-101-how-to-clean-your-drums-523321

Some of the advice in that article should be used with extreme caution.

Remember: keeping a kit in good order for a pro compared to a collector, are two very different things. For example: mention using 0 steel wool on chrome around here and get your fire suit on. If it’s that grungy, soak in CLR, dry, then clean with Brasso, and finally seal with the hard paste carnauba wax.

If you need chrome to shine after condensation formed during the plane ride overseas causing rust and you have a show tonight: use 0000 steel wool wet (not dry) with windex. Then, either call the sponsor for new parts, or deal with it as below.

Before restoring drums I was restoring cars, and I think a few other members do as well.

You need to understand the situation: a current production touring pro kit or a vintage collector piece that is not easily replaced. And addres the issues accordingly.

And other Carnauba Pastes-Waxes don't have petroleum products in them?

I didn’t say that.

But automotive waxes are made for paint, not metal. Paint is a nitrocellulose lacquer, catalyzed acrylic urethane or other PLASTIC. I can speak of first hand experience with One Grand on all of these finishes and know there are no adverse affects. That’s why I suggest it.

Maybe there would be no issues at all. But I would not suggest a metal only preservative on a vintage plastic surface, particularly when the manufacturer specifically excludes other materials.

They’re your drums and if you want to use that on a vintage Leedy wrap go right ahead but I cannot get behind you on that suggestion for others.

And for the record one grand is not the only option; however, you should always avoid silicones and test ANY new product where it will be covered by a lug casing before applying it generally.