Hi! I've got a set of pre-serial Club Dates that I'm fixing to repaint in blue/silver duco. However, I'm really having a hard time find any paint color that close enough to the silver duco stripe in local stores (Sherwin Williams etc...). I have a 6.5x14 Pioneer in this finish that I've been taking into stores and asking them if they can match the silver. They all get freaked out, haha! .... I'd like to restore them as close to the original finish style as possible, so I've got a compressor and a spray gun/air brush... which means I need normal liquid paint, not a spray paint aerosol can. Finding the metallic finishes outside of spray paint is apparently the hard part (so the stores tell me). I did find a close match at the Sherwin Williams Automotive store, but it was going to be $65.00 for a pint!!! ... So, I know there are guys here who have done duco paint jobs... Where did you find your colors? Thanks!!! :-)
Try crestlite
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp
once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Hi! I've got a set of pre-serial Club Dates that I'm fixing to repaint in blue/silver duco. However, I'm really having a hard time find any paint color that close enough to the silver duco stripe in local stores (Sherwin Williams etc...). I have a 6.5x14 Pioneer in this finish that I've been taking into stores and asking them if they can match the silver. They all get freaked out, haha! .... I'd like to restore them as close to the original finish style as possible, so I've got a compressor and a spray gun/air brush... which means I need normal liquid paint, not a spray paint aerosol can. Finding the metallic finishes outside of spray paint is apparently the hard part (so the stores tell me). I did find a close match at the Sherwin Williams Automotive store, but it was going to be $65.00 for a pint!!! ... So, I know there are guys here who have done duco paint jobs... Where did you find your colors? Thanks!!! :-)
I had mine done by a friend of mine that has a body shop. He mixed the color himself to get the closest match for the original gold and then added the proper amount of lacquer in the mix. There was nothing on the market that looked even close to this off the shelf. i know that you have to match both the blue and the silver but i think that you can get a pro body shop guy to get the mix right for you if you want to apply it yourself.
Yeah, either an automotive paint store or a body shop with their own mixing set up on hand.
I was very surprised to find the majority of the fender guitar colors were taken directly from the GM chip book. They didn’t even change the names. (Fiesta red and lake placid blue are two I did). I’m inclined to think that you could find your colors the same way. Once you have a chip number by any paint company, it can usually be crossed to the vendor of your choice.
Remember that originally the paint was nitrocellulose base lacquer and you will be using a catalyzed acrylic urethane most likely now, since you need a “one step” (no clear coat on top) system.
And silver metallic is expensive. Boring colors are $200 a gallon. Then you need reduced and activator.
I used a sanding sealer, covered with an automotive sealer and then color. You want to keep everything as thin as possible or you might as well wrap it.
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Kris, where are you located? What State?
For my painted cabinets I use a product from M.L. Campbell called Magnamax. The guy that matches stain and paint for me is the best, but he is in Des Moines Iowa. The company is Oharco, they sell the M.L. Campbell products.
You would probably want to use this,
https://www.mlcampbell.com/product/magnalac-pigmented-2/
Problem is they only sell it in gallons, you would need three gallons, two colors and a primer. They are roughly 50.00 each and they do charge 25.00 for a color development fee. But the magna lac is a pre-catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer so you dont need any catalyst or other products, maybe some thinner. If this is something that you might be interested in then I can get you in touch with Brent the color studio wizard. You would have to ship or drop off a drum for him to match.
Good luck, keep us posted on the progress.
Thank you!
Jeff C
"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Awesome info Jeff!
I had no idea you could still get Nitro outside of Behlen (which is what I used for my sunbursts). I also had to tint all my own colors with nitro, but I was fortunate to have access to an original '59 strat which I used for my 'burst shades. Unfortunately, all that lacquer and shaded clear I made up is long gone when all the chemicals were cleared out of the shop.
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
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