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Trying to decide between 2 kits

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From vintagemore2000

I have a 5 piece Ludwig rockers kit American made maple for $225.00 + ship cost

There ya go Inky!

Posted on 6 years ago
#11
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From Inkyhog66

I am in the market for a new kit and cannot decide between a 6 piece Yamaha Power Tour Custom or a 5 piece Pearl prestige session select. Anyone know which is best?

I'm sure you can't go wrong on either, especially if you could play them first. I like the hybrid birch shells for their warmth- like birch/kapur or birch/bubinga with the Starclassics.

For a live kit that wasn't mic'ed all the time I'd look into an oak hybrid for tone and volume. I'm a Ludwig guy so I'd look at the Ludwig Keystones with maple/oak shells- they're warm and loud, as well as affordable. Forks has a 4 piece for $1595 shipped. Or visit their website and call them- you might get a better deal over the phone.

Posted on 6 years ago
#12
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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From johnnyringo

Jay, with all do respect, no MIJ kit sounds as good as any American made vintage kit.D' DrummerThat's not to say some MIJ kits can't be made to sound decent, I've owned a few and was able to get a good sound, but not on the same level as my vintage American made drums. As far as these new Pearl or Yamaha kits go, in my opinion, they all sound the same, there's no character. And I'll take it a step further, that goes for the mighty dw or any host of new high end kits. Besides, is this not a vintage drum forum? I will always suggest a vintage drum over any modern drum.Cool1

I'm going to have to call you out on this one.

I have a friend with a RB Gretsch kit, Keystone Ludwig kit, Pearl masters studio kit (or whatever it's called) and he and I have jammed on several occasions...

My D20 can hang with his Gretsch just fine. If you take his 12 off the rail and suspend it by the rim, it sings out great, but on the clip it is like a pillow is inside it. Japan made kits are excellent quality, and regardless of my bias, you can't ignore the number of recordings made with Japanese kits. My 18" kick blows him away: "I can't believe how loud that thing is!" Very round shells with very accurate bearing edges and zero voids in the shell plies. The seam is angled (even on the old D20) to allow the plies to be slid against their edge for a perfect, zero-gap seam on every ply. Once I understood why the seam was that way (I initially thought it was just a gimmick), it is absolutely brilliant.

Snare drums is another matter, and it is well known the Supraphonic owns that space.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 6 years ago
#13
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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ten charecters

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 6 years ago
#14
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9

I'm going to have to call you out on this one.I have a friend with a RB Gretsch kit, Keystone Ludwig kit, Pearl masters studio kit (or whatever it's called) and he and I have jammed on several occasions...My D20 can hang with his Gretsch just fine. If you take his 12 off the rail and suspend it by the rim, it sings out great, but on the clip it is like a pillow is inside it. Japan made kits are excellent quality, and regardless of my bias, you can't ignore the number of recordings made with Japanese kits. My 18" kick blows him away: "I can't believe how loud that thing is!" Very round shells with very accurate bearing edges and zero voids in the shell plies. The seam is angled (even on the old D20) to allow the plies to be slid against their edge for a perfect, zero-gap seam on every ply. Once I understood why the seam was that way (I initially thought it was just a gimmick), it is absolutely brilliant.Snare drums is another matter, and it is well known the Supraphonic owns that space.

I was referring to vintage MIJ kits, the ones made with firewood. I know full well how precise newer Pearl or Yamaha kits are made. I myself have owned many new high end kits. My point is they all sound the same, I actually don't want a tom to resonate for days. I once played a 13" script badge Rogers tom right next to a new dw 13" Collectors tom, same type of heads, same tuning and guess what? The Rogers had a better tone and was much fuller sounding than the dw. Not to mention the Rogers kit it came from was about a grand less than the dw kit. I'm not saying dw or Pearl or Yamaha or Tama don't make quality drums, I'm just saying that I prefer vintage American made drums. Otherwise, I'd be playing a newer kit and be spending my time on one of their forums.

Posted on 6 years ago
#15
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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I agree with you regarding DW kits in particular Johnny. Perhaps they demonstrate "too much of a good thing" or whatever, but if I was a recording engineer, I'd cringe every time a DW kit came in.

I think John Good has a lot of neat ideas, and is certainly pushing the R&D boundries in some cases (I'm thinking of the angled plies as an example) but The kits I've sen and played (with the exception of the jazz kits they started a couple years ago) they offer nothing I "need". The one DW snare I have is never played. Still has the original top head and hang tags and will be at the CT Drum show this year...

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 6 years ago
#16
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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From johnnyringo

I wouldn't spend a dime on either one of those. My advice would be to buy decent vintage players kit. At least the vintage one will hold it's value if you ever decide to sell, not to mention they will sound better than either one of those import kits.

The only way to fly

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 6 years ago
#17
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You should buy the Rocker kit from VM2000! Those drums rock! Thats why they call them rockers. And he would be a good person to purchase from.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 6 years ago
#18
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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From jccabinets

You should buy the Rocker kit from VM2000! Those drums rock! Thats why they call them rockers. And he would be a good person to purchase from.

Yep, he is good people and I highly recommend him as well..!!

Kevin
Posted on 6 years ago
#19
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From kevins

Yep, he is good people and I highly recommend him as well..!!

Thank you fellas for the kind words.,

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 6 years ago
#20
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