Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 145.10230%

Late 70's early 80's?? Maxwin by Pearl

Loading...

Found on CL, "Gruesome green" 5 pc. kit. Yes, they are luan. The wrap is atrocious, and is lifting at the seams, rippling in a couple of places. That said, the shells look like they were rolled out yesterday. Edges look as though they were just cut. All hardware intact, spurs are junky screw in type, very little pitting and a tiny bit of surface rust, hoops round and flat. Hi-hat, CB700, 14" looks as though it has been played very little, and sounds a bit flat, however. 20" ride, no name anywhere, great for a kid to practice and a twin spring Ludwig Speed King pedal. Snare is complete, however throw off is in need of attention, as it sticks on the bottom hoop, would have to be removed and shimmed out in order to work properly. Heads all Evans blue hydraulics, oil filled except for bass, Remo Weather King batter, old original reso on front side. The snare is, imo, only acceptable as something to practice rudiments on.

Now for my take on this kit: $150.00. Before anyone goes berserk, my idea is to take the kit and pull it down to bare wood. I have extensive luan refinishing experience, as I used to own a studio services company and did a lot of movie work. This exercise would more to teach my son many things, how they are built, what the parts are and what they do, and a little lesson in restoring wood. Fine sanding and staining high grade luan can produce a lovely finish, if one knows what they are doing, and these shells are a very nice, fine grade of "wood". Red Oak Minwax, with a thin coat of bar top poly would make these absolutely stunning drums. Would removing the cheap-o wrap affect the resonance of the shells or would exchanging it for the bar top poly add to it?

14X22 bass, 7X12, 8X14 rack toms, 14X16 floor tom and 6X14 chrome snare.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#1
Loading...

Two comments....I think $150 is too much. Try to get for $100 or less.

Secondly, agreed luan mahogany can come out nicely, only problem is that the outer ply of the drum may not be a nice continuous piece like a veneer but is likely chopped up into several pieces with seams in noticeable spots and mixed grains. This was often done with wrapped drums since the outer part would be covered. So I guess what I'm saying is that it may not turn out as nice as you think....a risk there IMHO.

Posted on 15 years ago
#2
Loading...

From the_drum_dad

Two comments....I think $150 is too much. Try to get for $100 or less.Secondly, agreed luan mahogany can come out nicely, only problem is that the outer ply of the drum may not be a nice continuous piece like a veneer but is likely chopped up into several pieces with seams in noticeable spots and mixed grains. This was often done with wrapped drums since the outer part would be covered. So I guess what I'm saying is that it may not turn out as nice as you think....a risk there IMHO.

I did not take that into consideration...if it looks like patchwork, then Sparkle-brite would be in order.....hehehehehehe

In any event, the existing crappola would have to go. I am not a green drum wrap kinda guy, and it is loosing adhesion and beginning to ripple, which is evident if you look closely at the tom on the left. All in all, the shells themselves are better then the 2 year old Pearl exports, and the like I looked at last week. And I looked at several sets in the 2-4 year old range, so i guess what I am saying is this luan is a better looking grade than what I looked at in maple/birch (real thin) recently, and they do sound good to boot.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#3
Loading...

Covering them in poly would look great but sound similar to wrapping a violin in Saran Wrap. Last year I found this that changed how I think:

http://www.mother-of-tone.com/mother.htm

Here's a link to my site, and the pages on the theory, pine, and linseed oil may help:

http://musicmusicmusic.cn/sitemap.html

good luck!

Posted on 15 years ago
#4
Loading...

Hello all from OPorto, Portugal!

I've read this post very carefully because I've been thinking how to (if I should) restore and/or improve a similar kit.

It's a completely unbranded Pearl Maxwin lookalike (12x13x16 x 22 and 14 steel snare). Hardware seams like Pearl Export's early / mid 80's double braced (as far as I remember...).

I mean, all bits and pieces are very much the same as I remember (and have photos of - check my live.space - the first Maxwin drum kit our drummer in the band (1980) was presented with for x-mas. Drum lug model mostly. Anyway, there are no badges at all on this kit I've bought (!) and I've not been able to find a series nº either, inside out?!...

It's wrapped in an (still more or less preserved except some scratches) acceptable burgundy wrap, so I cleaned it all as well as I could (knew) and there it is: my son's (14) beginner's vintage drum kit!

Probably the best about it was the cymbal set: Original Tosco Super-T 14 HH + 18 + 20 crash/ride. Just recently I added up an extra 16 crash I found in ebay.

- What do you suggest? Shall I re-wrap, varnish?... Source some Pearl drum labels or any other kind?

- Can you people tell me what type of wood veneer these were made off?

Thanks and all the best everyone.

Ulisses

1 attachments
117.8 kB
Posted on 15 years ago
#5
Loading...

From Quasar

Hello all from OPorto, Portugal!I've read this post very carefully because I've been thinking how to (if I should) restore and/or improve a similar kit. It's a completely unbranded Pearl Maxwin lookalike (12x13x16 x 22 and 14 steel snare). Hardware seams like Pearl Export's early / mid 80's double braced (as far as I remember...). I mean, all bits and pieces are very much the same as I remember (and have photos of - check my live.space - the first Maxwin drum kit our drummer in the band (1980) was presented with for x-mas. Drum lug model mostly. Anyway, there are no badges at all on this kit I've bought (!) and I've not been able to find a series nº either, inside out?!... It's wrapped in an (still more or less preserved except some scratches) acceptable burgundy wrap, so I cleaned it all as well as I could (knew) and there it is: my son's (14) beginner's vintage drum kit!Probably the best about it was the cymbal set: Original Tosco Super-T 14 HH + 18 + 20 crash/ride. Just recently I added up an extra 16 crash I found in ebay. - What do you suggest? Shall I re-wrap, varnish?... Source some Pearl drum labels or any other kind?- Can you people tell me what type of wood veneer these were made off?Thanks and all the best everyone.Ulisses

Hi Q! My take on those Maxwins, and they certainly appear to be, or Royce, same thing. If the wrap is nice and tight, I would leave it alone. If it is rippling, it is easy to remove and sand smooth to stain. They are luan, however if you like a nice dark stain, it should look nice enough to leave as wood. Either that or look at this:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/sparkle-brite-glitter-film/

This is really heavy duty wrap, and I would remove the original in either case. That old cheap wrap is only held down with two-sided tape, and it ripples and warps easily, so for my taste, it goes. Look at the shells, they should be mahogany luan with reinforcement rings. If the bearing edges are immaculate, take care not to damage them, if they need refreshing, use sandpaper, and be VERY CAREFUL to keep the original contour. Good looking set.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#6
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
Loading...

[COLOR="DarkRed"]This comes up now and again...the Blick stuff.

OK, it's cheap...but it is very flexible and it dings easily... and it is not proven at all on drums. Changes in ambient temperature can make the stuff expand and contract and possibly create problems with the seams.

I say, stay away from it. If you need a cheap wrap, just buy a cheap drum wrap....something simple or on special for about $50/sheet or so.

Personally (oy, don't mean this to be a negative post) I think this older luan doesn't really look very good stained...the kind with the vertical open grain like they used in the 60's-70's.

Never have tried oiling luan, but it is very porous and relatively soft, much more so than maple or birch, so I'd imagine it'd really soak the stuff up.

Much nicer just to wrap old luan, IMHO. Another interesting option would be the adhesive backed wood veneers. I have seen folks add a layer of this to old Japanese shells, and it came out fantastic.

[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 15 years ago
#7
Loading...

From Jaye

[COLOR="DarkRed"]This comes up now and again...the Blick stuff.OK, it's cheap...but it is very flexible and it dings easily... and it is not proven at all on drums. Changes in ambient temperature can make the stuff expand and contract and possibly create problems with the seams.I say, stay away from it. If you need a cheap wrap, just buy a cheap drum wrap....something simple or on special for about $50/sheet or so.Personally (oy, don't mean this to be a negative post) I think this older luan doesn't really look very good stained...the kind with the vertical open grain like they used in the 60's-70's.Never have tried oiling luan, but it is very porous and relatively soft, much more so than maple or birch, so I'd imagine it'd really soak the stuff up.Much nicer just to wrap old luan, IMHO. Another interesting option would be the adhesive backed wood veneers. I have seen folks add a layer of this to old Japanese shells, and it came out fantastic.[/COLOR]

This reply is by no means a disagreement to Jaye's statement.

The brands sold on eBay are really the ones to stay away from. I have done a bit of research on the various sparkle wraps of the vinyl sign maker variety, and the brand sold by Blick is far superior to the rest. And now that we have found the clear acetate overlay as well, this may very well serve as a great alternative for these types of drums. I would not, personally, spend the extra money and headache of the typical wrap on most vintage Japanese shells. While it is true that this vinyl is not very durable, it still is far less expensive to use on orphan MIJ shells that are not going to be worth the value of finishply coverings. And if one takes good care their drums, the small knicks and scrapes should not be overly visible for a very long time.

Considering the extremely low cost of the acetate cover, and the low cost of Sparkle Brite, I am going to try this approach on some orphans I am picking up today. The guy does not know what the shells are, nor is he even willing to go dig them out until I get there. All he is telling me is that they are "old 70's shells that definitely need restoration."

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#8
Loading...

What's the acetate cover? Still got a roll of this stuff I need to use someday. Only intend on doing it once. :D

EDIT: Nevermind. Found the post in the Restoration section.

Posted on 15 years ago
#9
Loading...

From Rob G.

What's the acetate cover? Still got a roll of this stuff I need to use someday. Only intend on doing it once. :DEDIT: Nevermind. Found the post in the Restoration section.

I am still working on this!

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 15 years ago
#10
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here