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Levelling out a shell...

Posts: 622 Threads: 24

I just bought a Slingerland 12x8" tom advertised as a great project drum. This is very true. Previous owner had turned it into a marching snare and has cut quite wide snare beds, so it doesn't sit flat on a table. I'd like to reinstate it as a tom, so what's the best method of making it level and flat again?

I've heard of putting sandpaper on a bench and resting the drum on top, rotating it to sand the edges flat, but is that a good way to do it? I'd rather avoid the plane if possible and I realise the bearing edges will have to be recut, but how difficult is it? There's a great drum restorer about two hours drive from me, so I may end up there, but if I can do it myself I might save a few bucks.

I'm not overly attached to this drum, so if I mess it up then I mess it up. But any advice or comments are most welcome!

Thanks,

Trev

Posted on 8 years ago
#1
Posts: 545 Threads: 67

Use the sand paper trick untill it's level. Make some kind of pecil-jig to draw a line where you want the highest point of your bearing edge to be (the jig has the function to be sure that the line is at a constant distance from the outer diameter).

In case of not having a router: Use rasps, files and sandpaper glued on pieces of wood to give shape to the desired bearing edge. Be careful, work slowly. use large movements in the direction of the circle (not small movements against the direction). Just don't go to far, don't touch the pencil line. Then move to 320 grit. Done.

With a steady hand and patience anyone can do it.

In case of wanting to use a router, I'd advice you to cut a few edges on waste shells to get the hang of it. You'll need the right radius or angle bits and you'll need to make a router table.

Good luck.

Vintage and custom drum projects:
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...2305272732%3A6
Posted on 8 years ago
#2
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

I like those pumice grill stones they sell as miracle sanders they hollow out to fit the bearing edges , and what a nice job they do

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#3
Posts: 622 Threads: 24

From bartw

Use the sand paper trick untill it's level. Make some kind of pecil-jig to draw a line where you want the highest point of your bearing edge to be (the jig has the function to be sure that the line is at a constant distance from the outer diameter).In case of not having a router: Use rasps, files and sandpaper glued on pieces of wood to give shape to the desired bearing edge. Be careful, work slowly. use large movements in the direction of the circle (not small movements against the direction). Just don't go to far, don't touch the pencil line. Then move to 320 grit. Done.With a steady hand and patience anyone can do it.In case of wanting to use a router, I'd advice you to cut a few edges on waste shells to get the hang of it. You'll need the right radius or angle bits and you'll need to make a router table.Good luck.

Thanks Bartw, great advice. I don't have a table router, so it looks like elbow grease for me! That's cool, I'm a patient guy and not in a mad rush to get it finished. I'll try to post some pics when I get a chance.

Posted on 8 years ago
#4
Posts: 622 Threads: 24

From jaghog

I like those pumice grill stones they sell as miracle sanders they hollow out to fit the bearing edges , and what a nice job they do

I don't know them. Not sure if I've seen anything like that here (US products don't always get to us in Oz, but there must be some equivalent). Time to investigate the hardware store, methinks! Thanks Jaghog!

Posted on 8 years ago
#5
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

They sold them on tv for a while to remove any finish did not work but are perfect for bearing edges

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#6
Posts: 9005 Threads: 266

Trevor,

Why on earth do you have to remove material to restore it as a tom?

What happens when you flip the snares off of a snare drum?

If the snares have been removed it's already a tom! The presence of snare beds is not going to effect tuning.

Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Assemble and enjoy your drum. If you cut back material on the bottom of the shell to level it off you're going to alter the distance from the lugs to the hoop. The drum will never 'look right.' You may also have to buy a new set of T-rods because the old ones will bottom-out too soon. Just let her be as she is.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 6363 Threads: 223

From Purdie Shuffle

Trevor,Why on earth do you have to remove material to restore it as a tom?What happens when you flip the snares off of a snare drum?If the snares have been removed it's already a tom! The presence of snare beds is not going to effect tuning.Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Assemble and enjoy your drum. If you cut back material on the bottom of the shell to level it off you're going to alter the distance from the lugs to the hoop. The drum will never 'look right.' You may also have to buy a new set of T-rods because the old ones will bottom-out too soon. Just let her be as she is.John

+1 what John said! Sanding down the edges to eliminate the snare bed will only make the drum much shorter than it needs to be. Just assemble and enjoy! Post some pictures if you can.

-Mark

Posted on 8 years ago
#8
Posts: 668 Threads: 39

I too agree with John. I have converted a couple of marching snares into floor toms. I left the snare beds alone and they sound fine.

Posted on 8 years ago
#9
Posts: 622 Threads: 24

I see your point, and I did think of it, but the bearing edge is flat where it's been cut and that's what concerned me. Sound-wise, how big a difference does that make?

I have no problem leaving it alone though and just assembling it. Mind you it has been drilled for one centre lug and there are extra holes for strainer and butt, plus two other holes I can't quite work out what they would've been for. A mount, possibly. I'll try to get some pics up today. But I also have no problem re-drilling for two lugs on this drum, as it's already been "got at". I just wanted a bit of advice from the Masters! Thanks for your replies everyone. More to come...

Posted on 8 years ago
#10
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