I third it. Should be noted, none of this stuff is cheap...
Mitch
I just wraped a floor tom with some Jammin Sam original silver sparkle wrap and tape. My seams lifted to but I just glued them down with super glue. Fine now. I had the seams really close to the lugs too. Another set I wraped with his stuff the seams have held fine. Three or four years now. I like his product. It's just the rediculous overcharge on shipping that bothers me.
That 3M tape that was posted is the same stuff that they use at the Gibson Acoustic factory to stick pick guards to guitar tops. It is very similar to the carpet tape like Rhino Grip. I have not rewrapped a set of drums, but I've used the carpet tape on many things and have stuck a billion pick guards on guitars (okay, not quite a billion.) I'd guess that both would work very well. If you want to remove it later most of that stuff will come loose with some solvent (give it time to soak in) or a little heat. :2Cents:
I have carpet tape - I'll give it a go and post the results here. I may even use a bit of contact cement on the overlap because it won't be on the shell anyway.
An aside:
The shell is a 14" Gretsch (1949 parade drum)......and....the diameter is exactly 14 inches. A 14" drum head will not fit to this shell after I wrap it. I tried it on a dry run. My factory ordered 2012 Champagne Sparkle Gretsch drums - the same thing - the shell is 12 inches on my tom for example. Look at the photo here. Gretsch cut the wrap back 9/16" to allow the heads to be put on and tuned up easily (I will do that on the 1949 shell). I can't for the life of me understand whey Gretsch did not make my NEW shells industry standerd......so a head would easily fit over wrap once it's applied. My Champagne Sparkle Gretsch drums are to die for......but man....you've got to wonder in regards to the shell diameters.
Yes - I would have rather the shell be less than 12" diameter and the beautiful wrap gone as close as possible to the bearing edges. But that's just me maybe?
Yes - I would have rather the shell be less than 12" diameter and the beautiful wrap gone as close as possible to the bearing edges. But that's just me maybe?
It's me too and I think we're both simply right - flush to the edge is better. I don't feel like typing all the reasons...:)
Mitch
I posted the last comment via my cell phone so it was brief.
Here's what happened:
I used carpet tape and the drum looked fine until I noticed some bulges (loose wrap) near the bearing edges. I used Krazy-Glue and it was working okay. I didn't notice that I spilt some of the glue onto my work table. I laid the drum down on top of the spilt glue and when I picked it up a dime-sized piece of the sparkle layer on the wrap tore away. It looked bad and I lost it haha. I tore the wrap off so fast (and it was stuck pretty good at the glue points) that I forgot to remove the badge that I just put on the drum a few minutes before. I never even noticed that the badge and grommet flew across the room at that time. I was so interested in sanding the glue off the shell and removing the carpet tape that I didn't realize the badge was missing. It took me a while to find it........on the floor across the room. If I ever cover another drum I'll make sure I'm set up better for the task. I'll put a few coats of Tung Oil (again) on this drum.
Gary
Sorry to see it not go well Gary. I've had the same thing happen on some projects where I cut my losses and start over. No fun.
Killer Red Tape is the stuff you want. http://www.speedpress.com/products/2/49
I have wrapped two kits and a number of snares with this stuff and they have all held up perfectly. I get the 2" wide stuff and do a solid lamination of tape on the back of the wrap. Then I apply the wrap just like I would if I were using contact cement. Just make sure you peel of the backing in sections so you are only sticking about 8"-10" at a time.
It also works great for hoop inlays.
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