Tommyp!

I knew you'd accept the blame on this! Seriously, though, the wrap done by PDC looks very good. The chip pattern is a bit small compared to the original, but, overall, looks very nice. This was a drum I had no intention of using, but thought it would be fun to bring some life back to it...and keep it from the trash heap!

-Mark

My daughter gave me this drum for Christmas a few years ago. I really wanted to try the retobright thing but was afraid I would mess it up. Do you think this one is too yellow for the lacquer wipe down? And Tommy, how long has that acrylic finish been on that drum? Any issues with that?

I've done the wet sanding thing numerous times with varying degrees of results. The question of success in any of these attempts comes down to how deep the discoloration is. WMP color itself does not fade, especially the old stuff because I believe it is actual mother of pearl. However, it is the layer of plastic above the color itself that tommy is talking about that turns yellow. Wrap consists of layers. The base itself is the color, then there's the clear layer. These layers together make the wrap. On some occasions, wrap has multiple layers. In the case of WMP, it's just two. IF you're lucky, the yellowing is on the surface. IF the entire layer of plastic is yellowed, you would have to remove the entire layer of plastic that covers the color base itself. Now this is impossible with the wet sanding process. Primarily because the color layer itself is delicate and extremely thin. And once you hit it with the sand paper, it ruins it. Mind you, were not talking abrasive sand paper. What I use is 1500 grit.

If it is surface fade or yellowing, you can have some nice success. It can be a pain and take some time so be prepared to have a soar arm if you're not used to "wax on, wax off" motions for a few hours.lol. Once you knock some of that grime off, you buff the wrap with a high speed buffer and a wool pad. Using a specific polish, it will turn out like glass. You won't need to apply a clear coat of anything because you are not removing all of the plastic layer.

Now, again, this all depends on the wraps. Any of the pearls, you can get away with these tricks. But when you start diving into sparkles, things change. Those are colored flakes. So the fade can be the color itself. And there's no amount of polishing that's gonna bring that back. Because it is the base layer that is affected. Again, this is not always the case. Sometimes you get lucky, and it's surface grime or yellowing. You just have to experiment in a small area very carefully and patiently... and see if there's hope. Mod orange, psychedelic red, and other colors like onyx's fall into this as well. If the color fades, you can't just polish it. You have to fix it in other ways.

Maybe one of these days i'll do a walk through on this set up. I literally just did a late 40s slingerland bass drum but didn't take any pics of the before fade. I'll look around and see if I can find a before and after shot.

Jason

My understanding of sparkle finishes is that it's always silver sparkle, and the top layer provides tint, as in the pic below where the backing is also tinted by the top layer...?

Mitch

I would say partially correct. In my experience with this on sparkles, the top layer is not colored. If it was, I would see the color in the sanding sludge as it washes away. But it doesn't. So the top layer is clear. However, there may be a colored middle layer. But the same thing applies. You wouldn't be able to sand into that layer. It would become blotchy and ruin it. You can only deal with the top layer.

jason

That's what I'd call an inarguable empirical observation. :)

Thanks!

Mitch

Jeff!

Yes indeed! Your drum doesn't look much more yellowed than mine was, if at all. I suspect it would come out much the same .. plus .. you have experience with solvents, spraying clears, wet sanding, etc. All pluses. Let me add that you saw this very drum in my BR snare drum collection at the Chicago Drum Show last May, and never noticed that it had been "restored" ... as that's how natural it comes out. How long has the acrylic been on it? Ready? ... 12 years! The only part I left out on the procedure .. as it was a thumbnail sketch! .. is that after I sprayed 5 coats of the acrylic, and then ensured an absolutely, positively, full dry ... I wet sanded with 2000 WET using an auto body sanding "block", which is in essence, a rectangle of foam. That allows the block/paper to contour to the drum so and doesn't telegraph any finger pressure into the clear. Once that was done to satisfaction, well ... WMP, and all these type pearls of course, are high gloss in their natural state. So ... I buffed starting with an extremely light almost liquid compound, and then ... polish! All that was done with a buffer. Hand pressure is NOT going to do it as you also need the heat from the friction of the buffer to really "move" the material. You saw the results! You're experienced enough where I think you would have no issue!, and again... it's not that difficult, just time consuming .. and .. the one doing it has complete control. None of it happens fast, well ... not 'till the end anyway where you are finally buffing!

Tommyp

jason!

All good info from you here too!, but I want to add: My method is STRICTLY for the pearls ... NOT sparkle type wraps. I'm sure you knew that too, but I just wanted to make sure anyone else reading this did too! So, that would be pretty much ANY of the pearls. I also want to add:

YES!... the lacquer thinner removes JUST the top layer of "plastic" . The pearl itself is untouched, and is generally still FRESH! It's the plastic on top that the UV attacks and causes to yellow.

Tommyp

All great info Thanks!

Here is a work in progress marcher that was covered in a layer of cig. smoke. Having best luck with a mix of Dawn/Barkeepers Friend and Windex. Gentle rubbing with 0000 steel wool. No harm to the outer layer. Well maybe micro scratches but Novus and wax will take care of that.

Creighton

Thanks for really interesting feedback everyone. It seems that there are number of paths to choose from so I'll wait until I have my drum in my hot sweaty hands before deciding which to go with. I'll be sure to post before & afters fots if I decide to clean it.