I wrote a short article with some background on how various types of wrap is manufactured. Obviously it's written for the purpose of selling my product but some may find it interesting regardless:
http://walopus.com/anatomy-of-drum-wrap
[IMG]http://walopus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/3D-design-layer.jpg[/IMG]
First, I'd like to say, cool!
As a drummer with a preference for vintage drums my only concern with using a thicker than usual wrap would be head fit afterwards. Vintage drums, especially from the 50's going back, are notorious for being difficult to find heads that will fit properly after a re-wrap. Vintage Gretsch drums are among the worst offenders.
What kind of feedback have you gotten from the vintage drum guys that used your heavier than normal wrap?
Great idea and I'm sure a great product. I wish you guys success and the very best of luck.
John
I've always owned and played vintage Ludwig and Slingerland drums, always in wmp. I'd like to know why the 60's style Ludwig wmp has never been reproduced? I would have thought that it would be the only choice for anyone restoring very yellowed, or damaged Ludwig 60's wmp drums.
Also as far as Slingerland wmp drums are concerned, the nearest anyone got was the 'Continental' wmp from Precision drum, and I believe even that has been discontinued.
It would be good to see a company producing these wraps again. At least it would mean that old beat up 60's Ludwig wmp shells could be put back to their original state, and given a new lease of life.
I've always owned and played vintage Ludwig and Slingerland drums, always in wmp. I'd like to know why the 60's style Ludwig wmp has never been reproduced? I would have thought that it would be the only choice for anyone restoring very yellowed, or damaged Ludwig 60's wmp drums.Also as far as Slingerland wmp drums are concerned, the nearest anyone got was the 'Continental' wmp from Precision drum, and I believe even that has been discontinued.It would be good to see a company producing these wraps again. At least it would mean that old beat up 60's Ludwig wmp shells could be put back to their original state, and given a new lease of life.
You read my mind. I was thinking the same exact thing. Would be nice to see some of the old large chip patterns reproduced. I think they'd do well selling them.
First, I'd like to say, cool!As a drummer with a preference for vintage drums my only concern with using a thicker than usual wrap would be head fit afterwards. Vintage drums, especially from the 50's going back, are notorious for being difficult to find heads that will fit properly after a re-wrap. Vintage Gretsch drums are among the worst offenders. What kind of feedback have you gotten from the vintage drum guys that used your heavier than normal wrap?Great idea and I'm sure a great product. I wish you guys success and the very best of luck.John
Thanks for the kind words John. You bring up a valid point. That is a large reason we make two thicknesses. Our standard thickness outsells the thicker variety by about 75%. The only reason you would opt for the thicker gauge is if you're very accustomed to working with the thick old-style glass glitters. Some folks prefer the stiffer, thicker material, especially when glueing the wrap on. A lot of old shells won't allow for the thicker wrap at all, as you stated. It's not only because of the outside diameter, often these older drums, especially the thin shells with re-rings, are "out-of-round" which reduces the space at two points around the perimeter.
You read my mind. I was thinking the same exact thing. Would be nice to see some of the old large chip patterns reproduced. I think they'd do well selling them.
Buddy and FFR. I believe the answer is that making those patterns is a forgotten art. or perhaps just cost-prohibitive. If I eventually figure out how to make them, I most certainly will.
Ah so, two gauges! I thought you guys had painted yourselves into a corner offering only the heavy stuff. Take a lead from what the boys have been telling you. Concentrate on reproducing as accurately as possible some of the old classic wraps WMP. BMP, Champ sparkle etc. in the thin gauge and you'll guarantee a steady business from the vintage community. I would kill for some decent repro vintage wraps. I own 15 kits, every one as old as the hills... just like their owner.
Thanks for response, best of luck going forward.
John
PS - 'Gluing' is the only way to properly apply drum wrap. All that seam glue BS is just that, it's the equivalent of throwing a wet blanket on the shells if you don't in fact make the wrap a part of the shell by gluing it on. Seam held wrap is the biggest boondoggle to come down the pike in many years. It kills resonance.
Ah so, two gauges! I thought you guys had painted yourselves into a corner offering only the heavy stuff. Take a lead from what the boys have been telling you. Concentrate on reproducing as accurately as possible some of the old classic wraps WMP. BMP, Champ sparkle etc. in the thin gauge and you'll guarantee a steady business from the vintage community. I would kill for some decent repro vintage wraps. I own 15 kits, every one as old as the hills... just like their owner.Thanks for response, best of luck going forward.JohnPS - 'Gluing' is the only way to properly apply drum wrap. All that seam glue BS is just that, it's the equivalent of throwing a wet blanket on the shells if you don't in fact make the wrap a part of the shell by gluing it on. Seam held wrap is the biggest boondoggle to come down the pike in many years. It kills resonance.
Yes, all our wraps are available in the "Standard" (Thinner) gauge. Roughly half are also available in the heavier gauge.
Our traditional sparkles are quite true to the old style sparkles, in sparkle size/density/depth and overall appearance.
All our wraps can be installed either way. Fully glued or just seam-bonded. The choice is the customer's. Also there is no concern with using regular contact cement. I've even tested cleaning up with acetone with no ill effects. (I always recommend testing before doing this though.)
