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How to fix bumped Ludwig Acrolyte shell

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I picked up this Keystone badge acrolyte today. I noticed it has this bump right in the throwoff area. Somebody must have hit it and the shell has caved in a bit while the mechaniosm has also suffered and got almost stuck. I wonder if it would be possible to carefully hammer the shell back into shape as much as possible and to straighten out the mechanism. Hurting

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Posted on 15 years ago
#1
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From Fllx

I picked up this Keystone badge acrolyte today. I noticed it has this bump right in the throwoff area. Somebody must have hit it and the shell has caved in a bit while the mechaniosm has also suffered and got almost stuck. I wonder if it would be possible to carefully hammer the shell back into shape as much as possible and to straighten out the mechanism. Hurting

While I have never attempted to hammer out a metal drum I do have extensive metal working knowlege. That metal is "stretched" a bit when it is bent in like that and really no matter what you do, it will be somewhat flawed. Especially something like a drum that if it is out of round it hurts the sound. This is why good body men drill holes in cars that are dented, to "relieve" the stretched metal. I am NOT telling you to drill a hole in your drum!!

If I had to hammer out a drum, I would do the following though:

Trace the Outside Diameter of the drum onto a piece or 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 lumber.

You want half of the lumber left over once you cut out the drum shape so lay it out so that when it is cut, it looks like a half moon cut out of the board.

save the piece you cut out and use that to hammer against instead of hammering directly against the metal. Place the drum inside the half moon cutout so that the damage is directly supported by the lumber and use the piece to hammer against like I said earlier. This should get it close, I would think. You can also use a leather mallet or a machinist hammer (rubber or plastic tipped). You will probably need someone to help support the drum or use a towel or something to steady it. It won't balance on the board obviously.

Wait and see what the old timers have to say but this is my :2Cents:.

drumhack

"If it doesn't matter who wins or loses then why the hell do they keep score Peg? - Al Bundy
Posted on 15 years ago
#2
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Yes, making a wooden "buck" for the outside is a good way.

I've never attempted a drum like that but have done some automotive bodywork, and this is how I'd attack the victim.

The basic concept is to make whatever impact happened, happen in reverse to repair it. I use autobody hammers and dolly's. You hold a dolly (a heavy weight) on the outside and hammer from the inside (since the damage occurred from the outside. The dolly matches the shape you are going for and it transfers to the metal. Heat in the form or warm water might not be bad if you stripped the shell of hardware... I wouldn't want to mess with the temper of the aluminum with much heat though.

Judicious is the word.

Regular hammers don't have rounded edges and will leave nasty dents. Here's some hammers and dollies:

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp231/kaaawa2000/bodywork.jpg[/IMG]

Imagine - a grown man playing with dollies!

Playing with dolly's what?

I digress...

The classic story is that there's some old timer that can make a car fender with only refrigerator sheet metal and an old maple stump.

It's a dying (dead?) art.

The lever should just bend back after you remove it. It's nice to have a vise on a workbench when you do stuff like that.

Don't know if this will help you tho...

Posted on 15 years ago
#3
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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From drumhack

While I have never attempted to hammer out a metal drum I do have extensive metal working knowlege. That metal is "stretched" a bit when it is bent in like that and really no matter what you do, it will be somewhat flawed. Especially something like a drum that if it is out of round it hurts the sound. This is why good body men drill holes in cars that are dented, to "relieve" the stretched metal. I am NOT telling you to drill a hole in your drum!! If I had to hammer out a drum, I would do the following though:Trace the Outside Diameter of the drum onto a piece or 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 lumber.You want half of the lumber left over once you cut out the drum shape so lay it out so that when it is cut, it looks like a half moon cut out of the board.save the piece you cut out and use that to hammer against instead of hammering directly against the metal. Place the drum inside the half moon cutout so that the damage is directly supported by the lumber and use the piece to hammer against like I said earlier. This should get it close, I would think. You can also use a leather mallet or a machinist hammer (rubber or plastic tipped). You will probably need someone to help support the drum or use a towel or something to steady it. It won't balance on the board obviously. Wait and see what the old timers have to say but this is my :2Cents:. drumhack

Good stuff drumhack....Thanks!

Kevin
Posted on 15 years ago
#4
Posts: 307 Threads: 26
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From Fllx

I picked up this Keystone badge acrolyte today. I noticed it has this bump right in the throwoff area. Somebody must have hit it and the shell has caved in a bit while the mechaniosm has also suffered and got almost stuck. I wonder if it would be possible to carefully hammer the shell back into shape as much as possible and to straighten out the mechanism. Hurting

Ive straightened out a couple of brass Slingy shells with good results by using a heavy rubber mallet. Place the shell on a sand bag and GENTLY tap out the dent from the inside. Judging by your pics they should come out fairly easily. Im a sheetmetal worker by trade so this is sort of up my alley. Wouldnt attack it with a hammer unless you have some metal work experience. Hope this helps Good luck.

"It's Charlie Watts' band
Without him we wouldn't have a group"

Keith Richards
Posted on 15 years ago
#5
Posts: 136 Threads: 40
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Guys, I'm impressed! Bowing

Thank you very much! I think I will take all this advice and just try to discuss it with an experienced metal worker. I will need to find someone who'll understand this is a musical instrument and not a car part :P I'll get back to you when I have something.

Posted on 15 years ago
#6
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Hello,

a question regarding to the Acro's shell finish. In one of the pictures it seems like there's some flaking on the centre bead. Do Acro's have a clear lacquer finish or is it bare aluminium?

Posted on 15 years ago
#7
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You can go to an auto place and have them remove the dent with some machine. But in the end you will be paying more than just buying a new one. If you really can't make it sound good with it, maybe you can make it a hand hammered acro?? Be the first to do it!


Recent Purchases
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Posted on 15 years ago
#8
Posts: 136 Threads: 40
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Blue Note, I have the same dillema, It certainly semms it has some kind of coating since it has those scratches whch show a different texture under it.

drumbum, I could surely consider this option, but I'm afraid I have 0 experience and knowledge in working/hammerig metal.

Posted on 15 years ago
#9
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From Blue Note

Hello,a question regarding to the Acro's shell finish. In one of the pictures it seems like there's some flaking on the centre bead. Do Acro's have a clear lacquer finish or is it bare aluminium?

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp231/kaaawa2000/ACRO.jpg[/IMG]

What's the gold band (red arrow) around the knurled knob?

It looks like they anodized a coating on it, judging by the scrapes. Aluminum doesn't stand up too well otherwise - it develops a white powdery surface.

Maybe the scrapes on that bead were from Ringo's rings?

Posted on 15 years ago
#10
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