Only thing I can think to add is if you can get a piece of drum shell with the same contour [shell size] and use that for clamping. I see you're in the US so sourcing a donor MIJ shell shouldn't be too difficult. Heck I have one myself I could cut a section out and send it along....though there must be someone closer.

Mitch

I hadn't thought of that. I will do some searching locally and see what I can come up with.

Ditto, that's the way to go.....

I do customizing and resto work for a living. Going by the pictures only, without physically having the drum in my hands I would use a syringe and inject the adhesive behind the delaminated ply(s) and clamp into place using scrap pieces of shell (as suggested above). I have had great results in the past using this method. You need to inject as much adhesive as possible covering as much of the affected area as possible. With covered finishes I have drilled very small holes from the exterior side of the shell(without actually drilling through the shell) and injected adhesive.

I have always wanted to inject glue.

Which glue product works and where do you get the syringes?

Here's where I get mine.

Elmers yellow glue or Franklin tight bond is what I use.

The four pictured on top are the needle applicators with a plastic cover.

http://www.rockler.com/precision-glue-applicators

Abatron has a A +B mix it's a wood hardener, I've had good success using it with a needle and inject the area , try a turkey injector and then clamp in goes fast we us it on historic sites for veneer separation ....

Don't bother trying with a medical syringe, the needle's hole is way too fine to allow wood glue to flow through, I've tried it twice. The guy above said Turkey Baster: maybe, or maybe something between turkey baster and medical syringe.

Also, my children have Thomas the Tank Engine track pieces, and I've used those to clamp against the shell to keep the round form. I think that their radius is good for 16" to 18".

Thanks Pops

Rockler...Yeah.