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Fixin A Rail Mount Clip

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Just did this today. Pic 1 shows how the clip can get tightened in such a way as to leave the "grabbing area" too loose. Okay that's terrible tech language but I'm sure you've encountered this so you know what I mean.

Pics 2 & 3 show the clip placed in the vise before tightening to close the grabbing area. Give it all ya got.

Pic 4 shows screwdriver inserted [hammered in] to re-open the clip just at the bottom. This combo, clip and screwdriver, goes back into the vise for tightening again only this time it tightens to reclaim the original functional shape of the grabbing area. You will need to remove any wood panels attached to the vise to ensure that only the area between the rounded top and the screwdriver get clamped - you don't want to be tightening down on the screwdriver itself.

So far I've been unable to move the L-arm in the clip by hand. Will report back once tom is in place...[still working this]

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
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That's 'good thinkings' man! That part can make or break a tom holder and most folks wouldn't know where to start to put it right. Good, useful tips! I'll store it away for future use... good going, bud. :D

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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A larger washer may also help keep it in shape..

Cheers

John

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 9 years ago
#3
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Thanks John! It feels good to share...

So, John :), when you mention the washer do you mean putting it inside the clip as circled in the attached image? Or somewheres else...?

Mitch

1 attachments
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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Hi Mitch, No on the outside under the Screw Head.. Thick as possible and of a larger outer diameter, it will make more contact with the straightened piece of the clip and stop it from bending again. Perhaps even square one off on a grinder if need be..

Cheers

John

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
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Thanks for taking the time to post this! Great tip.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 9 years ago
#6
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Mitch, neet idea. But what I want to know is how did you draw a perfect red oval on that picture? And would you please take you pics outdoors,lol!!!


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 9 years ago
#7
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Yikes man that metal on metal in the vice jaws makes me cringe! Use some wood next time. :D Or even better.....take 2 scraps of wood cut to the size of vice jaws. Get pack of rare earth magnets. Bore a few shallow holes in the wood faces. Just deep enough to seat the magnets. Then press in or glue in magnets. And there ya go sparky. You can remove them for next time.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#8
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Good idea John [longjohn], I can see how that would preserve the shape.

Creighton thanks man!

Jeff I used Windows Paint for the oval, and the pics were taken in a mix of daylight and tungsten - I shall correct that in future...:)

Glenn, great idea with the rare earth magnets! The vise didn't mark the clip up much, but the right width wood protectors woulda been good.

So the fix worked 100%, arm not moving in clip. However that whole rail piece [clock face] would not allow for the positioning I wanted, down low close to the kick shell, so I switched to the other/newer piece [teeth] that also came with the kit, and it does the trick.

I also drilled for a classic L-arm cymbal mount bracket, bcuz that little straight arm deal on there ain't holding no cymbal - gonna bend an old leg I have and mount the cowbell there. For the no-drill purists, remember these shells are gouged, cracked, repaired and well....mine. :)

**All pics taken in daylight** :)

Mitch

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Posted on 9 years ago
#9
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You know I was just messin with ya on the pic right? Right?


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 9 years ago
#10
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