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Super Ludwig Re Ring Repair

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Ok, so I'm trying to fix this drum up. Has a few places with gaps between the maple re ring and mahogany shell. I tried to glue one part with Tite bond III glue which is supposed to be very good. It hasn't worked and sprung apart after a day or so.

I noticed in one area there is what appears to be factory filler? Could be that it has fallen out on the other side. Does anyone have any ideas what to use to fill these gaps? The drum itself is in round and heads fit so I'm beginning to lean more toward filling the gaps than trying to glue them.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#1
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try steam once you get it moist enough then clamp it it should stay at the new formed radius good luck

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once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 10 years ago
#2
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You released the clamps before the glue was completely dry/cured. Clean the glue out as best you can and start over. Brush in some glue, clamp and then leave it alone for at least 24 hours. If you let the glue dry completely, the repair will hold.

John

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Posted on 10 years ago
#3
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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The shell scarf joint is lifting too, that must be glued. The re-ring looks like it was lapped too much at the joint and is smaller in diameter than it should be. I`d go with a white solid wax . It wont shrink and remains pliable. Push it down in there with your fingers.

Just a suggestion to ponder.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 10 years ago
#4
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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For the outside joint, I`d try blowing the glue in there with an air hose or balloon and clamp then wipe excess off while still wet,

Another suggestion to ponder.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 10 years ago
#5
Posts: 1344 Threads: 172
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If it's perfectly in round and is in no danger of falling apart at the seams then there is no reason to do anything to it. I'd just leave it. Put some heads on it. Out of sight out of mind. That is honestly what I would do unless the sound of the drum was being effected then I'd follow John or Oddball's advise. :D

Posted on 10 years ago
#6
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Thanks guys, I have had it together but haven't played it yet. I need to address this issue so I will have another look over the weekend.

Posted on 10 years ago
#7
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From Purdie Shuffle

You released the clamps before the glue was completely dry/cured. Clean the glue out as best you can and start over. Brush in some glue, clamp and then leave it alone for at least 24 hours. If you let the glue dry completely, the repair will hold.John

Hi John, I followed the instructions and left it for 24hr but it has been raining a lot over here so I guess I either didn't get enough glue in there and didn't leave it long enough. I'll have another try this weekend.

Posted on 10 years ago
#8
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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I had the same problem on some Slinglerland shells. Where the gap was pretty wide I used a small piece of veneer to help fill the gap. I taped off below the rering inside to help catch any glue. Blue painters tape low tack is good. When you glue you can spritz some water on the repair. This helps the glue "wick" into the cracks and does not affect glue bonding. A very small putty knife to help stuff it in there is also good. Use lots of clamps!!! Trim the veneer flush when dry with razor and dress bearing edge as needed.

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Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 10 years ago
#9
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For these small separations, I use cheap super glue - the runny type. I dribble it in there, masking off all wrap and other sections first. I clamp and then do it again until it's completely closed and tight. You need to be careful but this type of glue penetrates very well.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#10
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