Not yet, should be arriving within the next couple of days.

OK these cymbals arrived today. I'm happy with them. They sound like B20 so whoever guessed B20, well done. :)

They're very light and have a nice dark, trashy sound. I'm thinking they could be rotocast, but I'm not sure. I like the look of these things.

Here are some photos that show this swirling pattern that people often refer to as a feature of rotocasting. Your thoughts?

I will put a sound file up soon comparing these with other B20 cymbals.

Thanks everybody.

The site is not allowing me to upload the photos. Hmmmm

OK, I just resized them. I think that did the trick. Clapping Happy2

Regarding the swirl on the cymbals. Take a look. Is this what you are referring to?

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=37602&page=3

jeff_r0x - that's very interesting. I don't think the swirl pattern on these cymbals is as prominent as it is on that Paiste. I've never seen that before on a Paiste cymbal. The more I look at these no name cymals the more I think Spizzichino. :D

by the by, these are definitely B20 cymbals without a shadow of a doubt. :)

They do look like some Spizz cymbals I've seen. Some are much more hand hammered though. I don't know how to identify a true Spizz vs. the imposters. I know there were Chinese knock-offs in the market as well, branded as Spizz. While we're talking about UFIP, it's valuable to know that they had the same issue. Primo series and Genio series are not UFIP made nor were they authorized to be made on their behalf. Just yet another Chinese phony.

As far as the true signs of rotocasting, I was told by Mr. Biasei at UFIP that a rotocast cymbal emerges from the centrifuge at a minimum of 3x times its final thickness. Any swirl (if there was such a thing) would be removed by the lathing process. I really don't see any swirl on my Class series cymbals, which are most definitely rotocast. The swirl then would have to have been created by the pin used in the lathing process.

The second sure fire way to identify a rotocast cymbal is that the bell will be significantly thicker than the bow surrounding it. Perhaps it is possible to achieve that thick of a bell with a traditionally rolled and pressed cymbal, but to do so one would have to start by rolling a very heavy, thick slab, punch (stretch) the bell into shape, then lathe the pie down significantly, without touching the bell.

As a side note, I used to own a set of rotocast Zanki hi hats. Even though the top was roughly the same weight as a late sizties New Beat at 860g, the bell was extremely thick, as seen through the mounting hole. In fact, they were every bit as thick as my UFIP Bionic hats, of which the bottom weighed in at 1440g.

Perhaps we can her a sound clip soon?

Much obliged, Jeff. Thanks for all the information. I was kidding about these being Spizzichino. I have a UFiP Class Series fast crash and I see no swirl patterns on that cymbal. The lathing on the Class cymbal is also very different to these No Names. I'm more inclined to believe these are Wuhan cymbals. The 13" hats are very thin, quick speaking, fast cymbals. Not a great sounding pair, but when hearing them in context with the rest of the kit they sound OK and I can see myself using them. They're bronze B20, perhaps sheet bronze, but I'm not sure. The colour is bright and looks like my Mehmet Efes ride cymbal. I'll put a video sound file up shortly.

Overall, I can't complain. Smaller sized cymbals than I would normal play, but they're bronze cymbals so I'll use them for something.

I've seen that swirl pattern lathing in some Chinese made cymbals including the infamous Wuhan/Spizz cymbals.

These are rotocast UFIP. The first pic shows right out of the molding. You can clearly see the swirling that spinning does to the metal that is poured in the center of the mold as it works it`s way outward. It goes all the way through and will show on the finished product.

The second one is pre lathing and on the far right you can see the spotting that happens. This will also show on the finished product. It looks like spills on the top of the mold stay hot longer and cause this spotting inside the mold.

The third one if you look close you can see the swirls on the finished product.

All this is subject to certain variables that change the outcome of the products.