I should also add, the inlay was not one long strip that goes all the way around the drum, its two strips that each go half way and are stapled together. And I'll also say Slingerland did a real **** job of cutting them, cause there were some points where the strips were too wide for the notch cut in the hoop, so they overflowed out, and other points where they were way to thin and didn't fill up the notch. I'm just dumbfounded as to how they got these on in the first place.

You can get replacements from Precision Percussion.

I'm wondering if these hoops are actually slingerland hoops. You mentioned theres silver glitter everywhere, but the wrap used by major american companies at the time completely enclosed that glitter in plastic. Even the backside has a layer of plastic on it... However some of the cheap MIJ stencil kits had wrap that had no backing. The wrap was like a colored plastic with glitter glued behind it, but no plastic layer on the back to keep the glitter in. which is fine as long as it stays on the drum. A picture would definitely help. And I have personally never seen an inlay that was one piece all the way around the hoop. They're always two piece. Also, In my opinion, who cares if the holes don't match up. Is the seam hidden under the claw and the T rod? I have a kit or two that has a three piece inlay because one broke. I just have to orientate the hoop so you don't see it.

I agree. I don't see how there should be glitter everywhere. Very strange. As to the two strips, since wraps are only 54" long, any drum over 16" requires two pieces.

The glitter was completely enclosed with plastic, but the action of prying the staples out split the ends of the inlay open a little bit and some glitter came out. I was pretty upset when I wrote this so I exaggerated the glitter everywhere thing. I was able to refasten the inlays back on, but its not pretty, and I'm afraid my tampering weakened those endpoints. Good point on the claw covering up the seams... I've had the kick drum dismantled for so long waiting for this damn paint to cure that I totally forgot that the claws can cover that up. Anyway I ordered a sample from Precision Percussion, and if it looks close enough I really may just replace these inlays, cause they look pretty busted now. But I'm also just really fed up with messing with these hoops. I started this project over a month ago, and honestly at this point I wish I had just left them the way they were. Totally did not expect it to be this difficult to spray paint something black.

Ross,

Don't let this get you down! It's great that you are fixing up your kit and you'll be happy you did when see the end result. I have had great success with Rust-oleum high hiding auto primer ( one very light coat) and then follow up with two LIGHT coats of Rust-oleum Satin or Semi-Gloss in the color of your choice. I have decided that I am happier with the semi-gloss finish compared to the satin.

Like you said, I would sand the paint back off (or strip depending on how big of a mess the un-cured paint is) and then clean the sanded hoops of all dust. A wet rag or tack cloth works fine.

Apply one light coat of primer and allow to dry. Usually takes an hour or less. Lightly sand primer with very fine sand paper or very fine steel wool.

Again, clean hoops of all dust.

Then apply one light coat of your paint and re-apply a second coat usually within one hour.

Let them air dry for at least 24 hrs. or more.

The lighter the coats of paint the better to avoid runs and longer curing times and shake the cans longer than you think you should.

I don't have a good photo of semi gloss, but this one is an example of satin.

Good luck!

Yeah that hoop looks great. I wanted to try the black lacquer cause thats what was used in the factory, and it came with a lot of recommendation. But I didn't realize how much more finicky and sensitive to the application process lacquer spray is. I've been reading that modern lacquer paint is not the same as it used to be due to EPA regulations forcing companies to change the formula, as a result it just doesn't cure the way it should. So maybe an enamel might be the better option if I decide to go forward with redoing it.

Man sorry to hear about the problems!! Very strange the lacquer never dried. I used Rustoleum gloss black lacquer sold at the Home Cheapo. When it dried and cured it was a nice semi-gloss/satin finish not high gloss. I used it on both of my Slingerland projects with excellent results. 1 can was enough to do both hoops nicely. Anyhoooo good luck and hope thing go better next time around!

BTW Randy that hoop looks killer!!! Really nice job on that.

Consider using Chrome Inlay... Looks good on most kits... and it matches.... all of the Chrome fittings..

Cheers

John