Namu - Welcome to VDF!
This is -all- minor repairs that you can do at home. You'll need to pay a visit to Home Depot or Lowes etc depending on how well-stocked your basic tool kit is.
1. The wrap lift:
A. Use blue (paper) painters tape to mask off the wrap opposite the seam. Butt the tape right up to the seam. This will prevent any squeeze out from the adhesive from oozing onto the wrap/finish.
B. Any cyano-acrylic gel-type glue will do, but you can also use contact cement. For Crazy Glue (Gel-type), use a Q-tip to coat the underside of the seam with adhesive. Don't over-do it. You don't want any squeeze out when you apply pressure.
C. Press down and place a long strip of wood over the seam and clamp it down. (see photo) Leave the clamps in place for a full 24 hours. The seam won't come up again for another 25 years.
[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/bw1.jpg[/IMG]
2. Ply separation:
Simple... use a toothpick or small artist brush to fill the gap with yellow carpenters glue. Use several clamps and immediately wipe away any excess glue squeeze out. (see photo of spring clamps. You'll need a bunch of them. They're cheap, no worries.) Leave the clamps in place for a full 24 hours.
[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/sc.jpg[/IMG]
3. Bearing edges.
A. Use wood filler to fill in any chips or dings along the edges. Use your finger to rub it in and try to follow the existing profile of the edge. You want the filler as level with the existing surface as possible.
B. Get 4 - 120 grit (self-stick - it has a sticky back,) sand paper sheets. Find the flattest surface in the house, usually a formica counter-top. Stick the four sheets of sand paper to the (flat) surface in a large square, butting the ends of the paper.
C. After the filler is good and dry, place the edge down on the sand paper and -gently- twirl the shell from side to side a few times to level off the bearing edge - without removing too much material. You just want to level the bearing edge, not lower it by removing too much wood.
D. The top of the edge will be slightly flat on top after this operation. Take some of the 120 grit paper and (holding it just like a shoe-shine boy, holding both ends and folded over the edge,) buff the sheet back and forth over the bearing edge until it regains its roundness. Go around the drum evenly.
E. Use some quality paste wax or butchers wax and seal the edges. Use 00-00 steel wool to rub on the wax. The bearing edges will be smooth as glass when you're all done.
Don't let it intimidate you, it's a job you can do. Does not require special skill, just attention to detail and calm care.
Back in-round -
It;s already been described for you above. Good method and it works. Leave the rod and clamps on for a couple of weeks minimum. The drum will hold its shape after that.
BTW, I have the dual-tom post you need for the kit. If you're interested, send me a pm (private message) through the forum. The other missing hoop and odds and ends can be had here, or at ebay.
If you run into any problems, ask here. One of the boys will see it and respond.
Best of luck, nice drums. Worthy of restoration.
John