Bump to help a brother out?

Watch Poppys video!!! It is very detailed and will help you feel confident going in!

I always use Precision rap. I hate to tell you, but precition usually cuts the covering over size so you can cut it back after you wrap it. But you can work with what you are getting. Be sure to do the prework, it will pay off. pre-wrap the covering on your shell, and mark out at the edge exactly where you want it to start so it will finish under a lug set, or just past a lug set. make sure you make a square start line (I use a t-square). I scuff the backside of the covering to help with the adhering. After you have it all set out, and have checked that it's as close to the marks as possible you should be ready for contact adhesive. I apply the adhesive with a foam roller. Let the adhesive dry and you are ready to start applying. Precision should leave you with an ample over lap area. You shouldn't need to trim back any there. I use a laminate roller, but you just need to work around slowly and press it tightly. Wrap all the way to the overlap. Use a piece of masking tape to mark the end (seam), then lift back up the end, and peel the protective covering back just on the area under the overlap. I then scuff there, and apply the contact adhesive on that part. Let it dry, then press that area down. Tape the seam or clamp it. Drill all holes from the inside out, and use a scrap piece of wood to drill into to keep the covering from tearing. I have done quite a few drums, and I know I forgot a few things. Ask anthing if you want. I will try ro answer.

Thanks for the responses. I have a few questions for you, Ryan vonR.:

1. When you say "scuff" the backside of the wrap, what do you use to scuff it with? Is this a necessary step?

2. When I pre-wrap the covering (test run), do I just use tape to hold it in place?

3. As far as the adhesive (3M 30-NF Fast Bond), where do you usually go to purchase it? Also, where can I get the adhesive roller? I know some people who just rub it with an old t-shirt to press the wrap on, and I know another guy who rolls the drum on a hard floor to press it on.

4. This might sound dumb, but what if I don't use any overlap? Just line up the two pieces under the lug? Even if a tad bit of wood shows, it will be facing back towards me and not the audience. Is this a bad idea?

5. If I choose to do the overlap, how much should be overlapped? What do you use to cut the protective plastic off the wrap (in a straight line) to put the adhesive on?

6. Do you recommend that I have someone help me the first time (to either hold the shell and/or the wrap)?

7. When re-drilling the holes, I would put the block of wood on the outside of the shell over the hole, and then drill from the inside, right? How long should I wait before I re-drill?

8. When applying the adhesive (and letting it dry), is it a good idea to apply two coats to the bare wood shell, because the first coat might get absorbed into the wood?

9. When "Rolling" on the wrap, do you have any tips for keeping it straight?

10. If I tape the seam of the overlap (I know the plastic covering will still be on the wrap), should I use something easily removeable like painter's tape, or something stronger like duct tape? How long should the tape stay on?

That's a lot of questions, I know. Thanks for your help!

V

Ok here goes nothing.

1) I like to scuff the back with a light sandpaper or a scotchbrite. it may not be necessary, but it helps give the contact cement something to bite into.

2) You should be able to tape it to get a good idea of your end result. I just know that if youmake a line and just try to follow it around the shell, you might end up with a wrinkleor two. As much as we like to believe out shells are perfectly round, rarely does exact happen. especially on older drum shells.

3) I know you can order it from Precision Drum, but I usually purchace mine from WW Grainger. I don't think it's any cheaper really, but it's just an easier pickup for me. And that is the only adhesive I use. Precision specifies it for warranty. I bought my roller for pressing at menards I think, It was n the countertop area. But if you aren't going to do more than one or two drums you should be fine without.

4) You can do no overlap if you want. The standard is to let it overlap, Usually about 1.5" to 2" If you don't overlap, and the covering shrinks with time, it will pull back to show wood, and not more covering.

5) Overlap what is sent to you if you do it. Precision knows what they are doing. The protective covering will just peal off, you don't need to cut it. If you use masking tape to mark the end of the overlap area, you can then just peal back the covering to the masking tape and fold it back over the tape.

6) Get help if you want, I would recomend using something to hold the shell from the inside. It is easy to get stuff stuck to the adhesive and if it gets under the covering you will see a bump, and it's there for good. I would say something as simple as a 2x4 clamped to a bench would be good to rest and rotate your shell on.

7) I use a scrap of wood on my bench, press the shell to it and drill out from the inside with a bit that matches the hole. It is easy to drill small and clean out a larger hole with a round file as well. I have waited to do this, but in a hurry I have done it almost right away, and had no issue.

8) You can double coat the shell if you want. I would use your judgement there. The shell you are using might be a bit more poreous than a solid maple , etc,

9) You have to prefit, and have a good solid start point. after you start wrapping, your main goal will be to keep in flat to the shell, You won't be able to change it's direction then.

10) I just use masking tape. If that seems to lift at all you could clamp it in any number of ways, but I doubt you will have any trouble there. The sane goes for the set time. I have removed and assembled almost right away knowing the lugs would be keeping everything set, but I do preffer to leave it sit overnight.

Good luck!

Do a careful layout -before- using any glue. Place the piece of wrap on the drum leaving an equal overlap on both bearing edges. The ends/overlap will be trimmed away after glue-up.

Place one edge of the wrap half covering a set of lug holes. (choose the lug holes opposite the badge side.) So that the edge of the wrap covers half-way (over) the holes. Tape the end down and use a set of spring clamps to hold the wrap in position. Wrap the rest of the piece around the drum and snug it up as much as you can. Square it up so the wrap is on nice and straight. (Carefully) while maintaining the position of the taped end, clamp the wrap in place in the middle. Lift the taped end and tuck the other end underneath it. Clamp down the end piece. Not the end you started with, the one you tucked under the taped end. The taped end now becomes the top piece. Once glued up, the top seam will fall centered under a set of lugs.

Draw a line on the shell using the -bottom- end/edge of the wrap as a guide. When it comes time to put the wrap on the shell, use the guideline to line up your wrap before you roll it on. I use a rubber countertop roller to squeegee the wrap onto the shell. If you lined up the piece perfectly with the guideline, the wrap will go on evenly and the seam will land under a set of lugs. Clamp the seam down well and allow at least 24 hours for the contact cement to cure.

Not as hard as it sounds. The better you do the dry run layout, the better the finished job will be.

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/bw1.jpg[/IMG]

After drying, trim the excess wrap at the bearing edges with a good razor knife and done.

John

I have a question also.

RECESSED WRAP:

My new (2011) Custom USA Gretsch shellpack is wrapped (Champagne Sparkle Nitron) and the tom wraps are 'recessed' and inch or so from the bearing edges. I'm assuming this is to allow a better head fit. The drums are super easy to tune......

This recessed wrap would be a perfect fix for my wrapped vintage Gretsch toms. My late 50's Gretsch 14" floor tom is a Monster to fit modern heads to.

I have a late 50's Gretsch cocktail drum that I want to wrap.

Question:

Is it a good idea to wrap it just like my 2011 Gretsch toms = wrap ending an inch or so from the bearing edge? Seems like this would be the way to go.....what do you folks think?

Don't mean to Hijack this thread - just thought it would be something to add here.

I cut the wrap 1/8th" below the bearing edge. I angle the blade down and out at about a 45 degree angle and go around the drum using the outer bearing edge as a guide for the blade. I don't try to cut through on the first few passes. It's a process of deepening the scoring I'm doing with the tip of the razor. After a few passes the strip of excess wrap comes right off. An inch of relief sounds like a lot. I assume the heads and rims cover it.

John

I think an inch sounds a bit extreem. I always wrap then cut down close to the edge, and then file off the edge to match the bearing edge contour. I have had to cut down wrap on some older drums that were just too tight of a fit for the head. another option would be to cut the wrap so that the last bit of it (about a half inch) is notched so the seam butts up instead of overlaps. I have repaired old drums in this way, and used this to help a new recover fit better. D.W. notches thier covering like this from the factory.