Nice resto you have going JC. Can't wait to see more. Polished steel wrap is going to look spankin' when finished~!

Thanks!, it will be fun. I will keep everyone up to date a long as they seem interested. It will take time due to my family issues and a very heavy work schedule.

I am so tempted to get the lugs and hoops re-chromed. They are in good shape but nothing like brand new mirror finished stainless steel.

JC

JC,

TommyP brings up an important point,...if that fiberglass is not spun glass and instead spun PVC, I don`t know wich, the contact cement may cut it, I would try a sample piece in a hidden spot to see if your glue will work !!

I got yellow EPDM contact cement on a plastic skylite once and after I peeled it off, there was a blury spot there because it softened it !!

Jeff,

Good luck on the project, and I'm sure you'll do just fine!

My :2Cents: here: This sounds like the old "tape vs. glue" debate to a certain extent all over again! The experts do NOT agree on whether-or-not the wrap has to be "fully adhered" to the shell for "full resonance." Go to Precision's website and they say if you don't use the glue that the wrap muffles the drum, akin to wrapping a blanket around it. Go to Jammin' Sam's and he tells you the opposite... and you know that's the direction I lean.

Neither is specifically talking about this SS wrap that you are using, but I tend to think your original idea of just of glue at the seam and then using the lugs to hold it all down would work fine...

Again, just my :2Cents: and which-ever way you go I'm sure will work out just fine!

Bill

Well I finally found time to wrap my snare drum. I ended up with 100% silicone adhesive. I asked my granite counter top fabricator what he would use and he said silicone. I went to a much respected hardware store, not a big box store (I hate them) and asked for the adhesive expert. At first I did not want to go with the silicone but after thinking about it, I went with it. I laid a heavy bead ever couple inches then spread it out with a small notched spreader. This itself worked very well. The problem is keeping the 1/4" margin uniform all the way around the drum. I had the steel cut 1/2" smaller than the shell. One reason I did not use contact cement is I wanted some working time; this stuff has 6 hours set time and 16 hour cure time. This allowed me to get the wrap on as even as possible. I did end up placing the seam behind a lug mainly for appearance. Tomorrow we will see how good it held at the seam. There is no doubt the steel is securely glued to the shell but I must say I am happy to think the lug will hold down that seam forever.

Happy 4th!!!!!!

JC

Very nice work! This one will be a beauty when finished.

Thank you. I wish the lugs were in better shape, they have some pitting. But I also belive that once this drum is back together it will be really nice. One lucky thing is that when I bought the Fibes drum set it came with some extra parts. ONe of those parts was a throw off lever. This is good because the one that came with the snare drum was very rusty.

This snare drum Im working on was a seperate purchase from the bass and toms. I bought it off e-bay and below is a picture of it when I got it. Paid 200 for it, alot of money in my oppinoin but I really wanted a snare to go with my drums that I bought off C/L for 60.00 that included a 24" bass drum, 14" hang tom, 16" floor tom and an 18" floor tom.

Jeff,

I appreciate your "progress" photos. I need to think about doing that myself in the detail that you do. It really helps to understand what all is going on.

I'm sure the drum will look great when you 'get-er-dun.'

Bill

Your welcome Bill. I put alot of thought into this and so far its paying off. Glueing metal wrap to a fiberglass shell is much different than using the Delmar wraps or veneeers on wood shells. Steel does not give and is not flexable in any way. Its not like you take a roller or your hand and smooth it out. Another reason to use the silicone is that it works with metal and fiberglass, therefore no worries of the adhesive "eating" the fiberglass shell.

JC

Well I removed my clamps this morning and it looks like the silicone worked very good. I wanted to install a lug over the seam to see how it rides on it. I made a mistake, I was avoiding drilling thru two layers of the steel so I place the seam just to the side of the holes. You can see how the lug sits crooked on the seam. Next drum I will not worry about drilling two layers and put it just pass the other side of the holes and it will be perfect. Cant believe I did this after all of the thinking involved,,, but its not earth shattering mistake either, I can live with it. I won’t notice it when I am rocking out on the kit! Good news is, the heads fit nice and loose even with the protective coating on the steel. To drill, first cleaned out the excess silicone from the holes then used a self-centering drill bit that we use to drill hinges, it fit in the ¼” hole perfectly. Drilled the first 1/8” hole with the self centering tool then finished up with a ¼” bit. Drilling was easy, just go slow speed with lots of pressure. As you can see from the picture with the film pulled back, this mirrored finish stainless steel is going to be sooooooooo pretty!