How about construction adheasive, spread it out with a card or something. Then you MUST roll it out, up and down to the edges and get the excess out.

To get the full vibrateing reso. it has to be fully adheared. You gotta have a counter top roller !! I`ve used it on SS stove pipe joints and it bonds well to SS.

It should give you time to clamp it up but doing the seam,...MAKE SURE YOU LAND IT ON CENTER WITH A LUG !! I would clean it, fiux it, then solder it !! With a real iron, not the electronic kits !!

I would use the contact cement and do the full surface, as thats generally the best overall method

Plus, that's how they were done originally

JC,This is how i do this works with S.S. wrap.First mark the shell where the seam will be over a lug and not near the snare bed.Do a dry run to mark the shell you will have to have the wrap over the lug holes alittle then wrap the drum so the over lap top will be at the center of the lug holes.h when marking the drum used a "T" sq.to get the line straight...I used contact cement their is 3 types the white water base clean up type DONT used that-their is a brown clear that is not water base Dont used that.Used the green color cement iam not sure what the name of it is.But this is the best type to used..Put in on both the shell and wrap.Let dry then line up the wrap to your mark on the drum put it on pressing it down with you hand.Now when you get to the seamat the over lap top piece dont lay it down on the wrap thats on the drum you have to send the end alittle with 100 gr sand paper and put some more glue down let try then press the top piece down-{ on the piece that the over lap put some tape down at the edge on the piece that ison the drum}- then clamp it down..On fiberglass shell if you edge is not to bad re=pair it before you wrap the drum..You will also need to send the edges of the new finish.....Mikey

I have wrapped wood veneer around shells using the same method that mikey is suggesting and that works good. Tommyp said in the other thread that I should not place the lug over the seem, "thats not how Fibes did it". Plus, that would mean drilling tru two layers of the steel.

What i get from this so far is the importance of glueing the entire shell. I will get some glue this weekend and do it.

JC

I absolutely and totally disagree with TommyP, put the seam on center with a lug. Anchoring the seam takes away from resistance of pulling durring expansion and just because Fibes didn`t bother, doesn`t mean you shouldn`t,...unless you try to pawn it of as original !! The fastener for the lug has the tolerence to allow for the lap thickness and the rod will still go normally into the hoop unless Fibes made them excact like idiots !!

You don`t have to take any of my advice,..I know you know what you`re doing, I`m just throw`n it out there !!

I said I would solder the seam,(without heating the product) because I been doing that for decades, don`t you do it if you haven`t got the hang of it !!

I have a Fibes kit with original brushed copper wrap fiberglass shells and not to contradict anyone but the seem is centered on the lug.

Jeff - I'm with oddball on this one. I always put the seam under the lugs. For all the reasons oddball provided.

John

JC!...

Put the seam where you want!... but the thing is, I have two Fibes 690 COF snare drums in the dedicated Buddy Rich snare drum collection, as Buddy played TWO different model snares within the Fibes line/brand: A 1966/67 SFT 690 w/prototype throw and butt.. ( 8 lug ) .. and then of course the very well known LATER production model 690 SFT.. ( 10 lug ) Both these snares are near MINT condition and neither has the lug OVER the seam. The lug resides right at the seams side. No solder... no lifting... nice and tight. The chromed spring steel wrap was put on with SOLVENT BASED contact cement at the time. I have had THREE SFT 690 snares drums as well as a full Fibes set back in "the day".. ( 1974 ) .. and not one of those lugs were OVER the seam. BUT!...

You must all remember that early Fibes drums were ALL hand built/assembled by just a few guys in a garage, and I doubt that there was any "standard" as to where the seam/lug would go short of who did the wrap on any given drum at that time. This seems to hold true as none of my lugs were over a seam, yet johnl's is clearly over the seam. So.... draw your own conclusions! My drums are original and/or restored to OEM. Doesn't mean you have to do that though!

Tommyp

It makes perfect sense to place the lug over the seem, this how I did my veneer projects simply to cover or hide it with the lug and also hold it down. I have no fear whatsoever of the seem lifting or seperating. This is 20 guage steel that has been rolled into a circle, its not like you depending on a lug or glue to hold it down. Personally, I would have naturally place it over the seem to cover the joint but there is a concern of how the lug will mount over it, will it rock back and forth? I will have to experiment to see how the lug sits over the overlaping steel, if I dont like the way it sits on the joint then I will go with Tommys way and place it right on the edge.

Odball, I dont feel confident soldering the joint so I probably wont do it. The stainless steel came to me polished and I can see myself screwing up a nice seem. I do not want to sell these drums ever, they are mine. And I would never try to sell a drum to someone without telling them all of the details. I am an honest person, always have and always will be. Thats the reason I have run a very succcessful business for 30 years.

I appreciate all of your advice, thank you for it.

JC