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Slingy Student Radio King

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I've got a Slingy natural maple kit and am currently working on putting together a Slingy mahogany kit. Neither kit's got the matching snare. I picked up a Slingy Student Radio King snare some time ago painted in what I can only describe as an "eggshell" color. I was considering stripping the paint off of the shell and using this snare with my Slingy wood kits.

I'm looking for some suggestions as to which product or products might do the best job at removing the paint currently on the shell. I'm also open to any and all input as to why this might NOT be a good idea.

Thanks in advance for your time and your help!

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Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Sorry nothing useful to add just that's a nice snare! It'll look good whichever route you choose. Do you think the paint is original or no way?

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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From FFR428

Sorry nothing useful to add just that's a nice snare! It'll look good whichever route you choose. Do you think the paint is original or no way?

I believe that it is. I've seen kits in this color.

Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Man that's clean as a whistle!!! Cool1

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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Yes, that is an original finish. I have a 1959 kit (well, 22x14 bass drum and 12x8 tom with a mid-60's 16" floor) that were the same finish. Someone had done a terrible job with some rubbery vinyl wrap and sanded off most of the original lacquer for the failed refinish, but you could clearly tell the finish was originally exactly like on your snare.

I would strongly recommend keeping it the way it is. You'll notice a big letter M stamped inside the shell (probably next to a date stamp, if there is one). The M stands for either Maple or Mahogany, which meant that the shell was designated to be either lacquered or stained (or Duco finish) when it was built. These shells were made a little bit bigger in diameter than shells designated for a wrap, which have a P stamped inside, which stands for Pearl (Slingerland's collective name for all wraps). "M shells" designated for lacquering (like yours) received an extra thin maple ply on the outside to which lacquer would adhere better than mahogany. Shells designated for a mahogany stain received an extra mahogany ply.

My point is that adding on a wrap could make the shell too wide, resulting in it being very hard or even impossible to fit heads on the drum. I learned that one the hard way! The only way to wrap an M shell would be to first remove the outer maple or mahogany ply, which would only be possible through hours and hours of sanding, and the kind of patience not many people have. Even then, the shell is still wider than a P shell, but it can be done.

d.

Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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From D. Rumble

Yes, that is an original finish. I have a 1959 kit (well, 22x14 bass drum and 12x8 tom with a mid-60's 16" floor) that were the same finish. Someone had done a terrible job with some rubbery vinyl wrap and sanded off most of the original lacquer for the failed refinish, but you could clearly tell the finish was originally exactly like on your snare. I would strongly recommend keeping it the way it is. You'll notice a big letter M stamped inside the shell (probably next to a date stamp, if there is one). The M stands for either Maple or Mahogany, which meant that the shell was designated to be either lacquered or stained (or Duco finish) when it was built. These shells were made a little bit bigger in diameter than shells designated for a wrap, which have a P stamped inside, which stands for Pearl (Slingerland's collective name for all wraps). "M shells" designated for lacquering (like yours) received an extra thin maple ply on the outside to which lacquer would adhere better than mahogany. Shells designated for a mahogany stain received an extra mahogany ply.My point is that adding on a wrap could make the shell too wide, resulting in it being very hard or even impossible to fit heads on the drum. I learned that one the hard way! The only way to wrap an M shell would be to first remove the outer maple or mahogany ply, which would only be possible through hours and hours of sanding, and the kind of patience not many people have. Even then, the shell is still wider than a P shell, but it can be done.d.

THANKS for your input. However, I never intended to apply any type of wrap over the shell. What I was thinking of doing is removing the paint from the shell so that I'd have either a "naked" maple or mahogany snare to go with my two wood kits.

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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If it is original than it is probably maple under the lacquer. That is a pretty cool drum in good condition, I would leave it as is and get a beater to strip. Ultimately it is your drum and you can do whatever you want but if you want mahogany then get a wrapped drum.

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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Hey,

I just picked up a seriously cool 15x6.5 snare dated July 1961 (African Mahogany inner and outer). I'd be willing to part with it to help you out. It's not a museum piece. I purchased the drum from the son of the original owner (Rosen, who made those fiberglass drums for Bud Slingerland) and he had modded it to please his own playing style. The original throw was removed as he really liked the zoomy. It's an original mahogany finish and shows some great checking through the years. I honestly love the drum, but I don't mind rotating it and finding another. I have a matching drum for the mahogany kit, so it really makes me no never mind. Let me know.

Here's the link to the thread on the snare.

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=29550

What Would You Do
Posted on 12 years ago
#8
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From OldSchool

THANKS for your input. However, I never intended to apply any type of wrap over the shell. What I was thinking of doing is removing the paint from the shell so that I'd have either a "naked" maple or mahogany snare to go with my two wood kits.

Welcome! I was kinda just posting some general info. Sanding it down to the bare wood to then apply a clear coat or oil finish is an option, but keep in mind they picked the less nice looking wood for solid lacquer finishes and the nice ones for clear/natural finishes. So chances are the wood won't look particularly nice. Then again, it might. It's a chance you'd take. But honestly, keeping it in its original state makes it relatively valuable. Once the economy is back on its feet and this drum has another 10 years on it, it could fetch a really pretty penny when still being 100% original. There are plenty of Slingerland snares on eBay that have a beat-up finish but are otherwise in great shape. I'd suggest picking up one of those to refinish. With the right eBay skills, you can score a nice one for under $150.

Posted on 12 years ago
#9
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From lucky

If it is original than it is probably maple under the lacquer. That is a pretty cool drum in good condition, I would leave it as is and get a beater to strip. Ultimately it is your drum and you can do whatever you want but if you want mahogany then get a wrapped drum.

I don't really have any "preference" between a maple or mahogany snare. I obviously did a very bad job of explaining my intent here. It was simply to remove the paint on the shell and leave the drum "as is", whatever finish is underneath (maple OR mahogany).

Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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