Hard to say without having it in my hands,but the wood looks pretty dry.You may have to sand the whole shell,and remove the badge.I would plug the extra holes also.There are a couple of members here,who are builders,and drum restorers,who can help,be patient.

Steve B

Here ya go Oldschool:

1. INSPECT WOOD.

Start by making a thorough inspection of the wood. Make note of any holes, cracks, splits or loose joints that need to be repaired. These are always best done prior to staining and finishing your project.

2. FILL HOLES AND CRACKS.

Small holes and cracks in the wood can be filled using wood filler. Don't smear the wood filler around the hole, as that will require additional sanding to remove the excess. Instead, use the tip of a screwdriver to carefully pack the wood filler into the hole, mounding it slightly to allow for shrinkage as it dries.

3. (If needed...) STRENGTHEN ROTTED WOOD.

Old wood may have soft or rotted areas caused by excessive moisture. Scrape away any loose wood fibers, then brush on some wood hardener. As it dries, it will harden and strengthen the softened wood. Use wood filler to replace any missing wood.

4. SANDING.

Sanding is a critical step in the wood preparation process for several reasons. It smooths out the dried Wood Filler or Hardener etc. Sanding removes nicks and scratches, and opens the pores of the wood to accept more stain and finish. Sanding also removes any remaining old finish on the surface. Start with a 100 grit and work your way up to 220.

5. Finish.

You need to seal and protect the wood after you prep it. Use 00-00 steel wool to prepare the surface for stain, Tung Oil, or clear coat. Use multiple coats of finish sanding with 00-00 steel wool in-between coats. After three or more coats, the drum will have a rich, deep finish that will last for years.

"Ask, and ye shall receive..."

Hope this helps...

John

wow that was awesome...Mind Blowi

I can't wait to get the shell and go to town!

Thanks for all the input and tips. I will post a pic when I'm done!

Excited

Oldschool - quick sanding tip... when sanding the shell, always go with the grain and use the longest strokes you can. Sanding back and forth real quick in one spot will leave a very uneven surface on the shell. Long strokes as you go around will take the top layer down evenly. The shell won't have any waves in the surface after you're done.

I love rehabbing old drums. It is a most gratifying labor of love. I dig doing all the different steps and watching the shell get more and more beautiful with each completed task. And when you tighten the last tension rod... Nirvana!

Enjoy your project.

John

Well, I found this one, too and put it in my "watch" list, intending to let it ride for a while before I pulled the trigger -- should have just pulled the trigger, huh?

You got a good deal, and the seller's easy to deal with.

I'm not much into refinishing (I was going to wrap this and put it with a project of mine), but you could shoot jccabinets a PM as he's a cabinet maker...

Bill

Yeah I think it was priced just right, I laugh at some ebayers who think a bare shell is worth more than a complete one... I have the parts so I new it would be fun to go after.

I did receive the drum and it looks like I need to sand the whole thing. I like wrapping drums but this is my first attempt at a sand and stain and want to give it a shot :)

I am currently experimenting with a 1966 12x14 WMP snare drum shell. I cut it down and made it 5.5 x 14 and re installed the re-rings. Should look like a nice 3ply artist when I'm done.