There is some stuff I've used called 'Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler.' I've provided a link so you can read up on it.

http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/high-performance-wood-filler

I highly recommend you use another product first, before using the filler, it's called, Ronseal Rot Wood Treatment. It'll make the area rock hard before you use the filler... which also dries rock-hard. The area will be stronger after using these products than when the drum left the factory. It works. You can sand, drill, file this stuff after you use it. It gets that hard. You can apply it with a putty knife and sand off the excess to make it flush with the shell later.

Hope this helps...

John

You could also use this to fix the bad spot on the shell.Its called "ROCK Hard" it comes in a red and white can you can fine this in any hardwear store.as for your questions on the washers on these drums they used a few ways to mount these mounts.One way was you would have a chrome round washer on the outside of the shellwith a small dent in the middle to lay flat next to the shell,Then a round inside washer not chrome with a lock washer and nut. But they also used a flat piece of metal in the inside of the shell-{back plate} this would also have a bent spot to lay next to the shell...Mikey

Hey, I might have to look into the "Ronseal" stuff, as I always like to try things out... however, I've had good results in repairs and extra hole filling with "Rock Hard." That's good stuff, and a can seems to last forever...

Bill

I use a commercial grade of water-thin CA adhesive for stuff like that, the same thing I use for hardening bearing edges. It has excellent capillary absorption and just wicks right into the area, but you need to be wary of spills and drips. Once this stuff cures, the area is rock-hard.

To my mind, that drum is permanently degraded and I would not trust any wood filler product 100% to repair this. I would choose whatever flavor of wood putty you fancy (wide range of opinions on that and most things of this nature), apply that, then either continue to use that metal plate or cut and drill something out of wood to act as a huge washer, sandwiching the deteriorated area between the hardware and whatever backing material you choose.

toodles

drumhack x-mas3flowerBurger Kinx-mas2Mister T

Bill, the Ronseal and Rock-Hard are all basically the same type of product, it accomplishes the same result. JR uses the CA adhesive which in the end, does the same thing, harden the weakened area. It's all good. If you already have Rock-Hard around you don't need to go out and buy another 'Rock-Hard' type product.

Nearly Brian - It's an easy repair and it will allow you to replace the leg and play your drum. You might want to dress the bearing edges and consider hitting the inside of those Luan shells with a little varnish. Those old Luan shells can sound warm and fat if you treat em right.

John

John, thanks for the info. It will be awhile before I get through my can of Rock Hard.

Are you the one that (in another thread) warned about NOT using polyuerethane (sp?)? I've got a 60s MIJ set that I hadn't gotten to yet, and it has a clear Luan interior... and hadn't thought of that...

> Are you the one that (in another thread) warned about NOT using polyuerethane

Not guilty, Bill. Somebody else wrote that... a coat of varnish on Luan shells will help them to project better. A lot of those MIJ's have a tendency to sound muddy.

John

Bill, if John recommends a certain treatment, you can count on it's being the correct course to follow! Minwax Wood Hardener also works wonders. The Minwax Wood Filler is exceptionally good. It can be sanded, drilled and even stained. I have used it before with great success! Trust John. He knows what he is talking about!

Brian