yeah. I don't know about the staining as I'm new to this...might have been easier and less wood would have been shaved off this guy.
I'm waiting to hear from a veneer company on a small piece of bubinga waterfall paperbacked veneer (contact cement).
These usually come in 2' x4' sheets for lots of $. I only need 8-10" x 48"...
anyone know of a veneer place who will cut stuff up?
would this look cool in carpathian elm or walnut burl?
cheers!
You can find tons of veneer on ebay, many odd-ball pieces at reasonable prices.
Another option, I have a Rockler woodworking store near me that sells these veneer sheets that are perfect for snare drums:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2215&filter=veneer
I have also used these from the Woodcraft store, although I don't think they carry the width you would need:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005170/4097/Maple-Figured-Veneer-12-sq-ft-pack.aspx
Great project - I've gotta look for one of those.
jim
Hey all!
I ordered some waterfall paperbacked veneer and it arrived today. I wiped it with some water to show the grain and man o man...Keep on Pl
So here is what I'm thinking on finishing this puppy up. I've never done this before (attach paperbacked veneer and then finishing/staining the drum).
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1)-Cover the drum in bondo or to try to fill in the dips in the wood as much as i can- let dry and sand lightly. **Suggestions on wood filler?**
**Should I tape the inside holes with painter's tape. How can I avoid goo build ups in those holes? **
2)Cut veneer to size, cover drum with contact cement as well as the veneer, and let both dry for 20 min. Cover both again in cement and slap that veneer on there.
**I'm actually thinking of taping the veneer down on a flat surface and rolling the drum on to it. I will include an overlay (slack) to work with seam/joint later. **--- Use pressure (wood block) to make a tight bond.
3) Cut excess veneer, and work on seam for tight and clean joint.
4) Cover drum in saran wrap/nylon stuff like material and use mountainhick's duct tape wrap for equal applied presssure.
5) Let sit for approx a day, make any fixes (re gluing of edges that are tapered due to sanding etc.)
6) Use power drill **What kind of drill bit should I use?** to drill holes in veneer for lug holes, stainer etct).
6) Lightly sand and apply clear on stained finish. ** This is where I need the most help. Should I use clear and just let the nat wood come out for would it be cool with a little reddish colored stain like mahogany in there?
If this list is the ramblings of a misguided shhnook....lemme know!!
I was using this as a general guide, big difference is nat veneer v. my paper backed.
Nice! You're making me want to find a beat down Coliseum that's in need of a birdseye maple treatment.
if you have low spots from sanding the shell, determine how low and how many their are. if its not too bad, the glue will sorta fill the low spots.
if you try to fill those spots with something, you will have to sand the shell again to make it all smooth. that in turn may cause low spots in the areas you didn't need filler in. just be careful.
as for covering the holes on the inside (when gluing) go for it with painters tape. its just glue, so when you go to drill the original holes again (using the proper size of bit as not to enlarge them bigger) it will clean out the excess glue too.
it would be a good idea to paper and tape the inside and edges before you start gluing (see edges remark below) you will have glue on your hands and you don't wanna transfer it to the inside of the shell.
once the shell is ready to veneer, cut to size and dry fit the veener so there's no issues when its time to glue. i usually cut it about 1/2 to 1 inch longer for the over lap and about 1/4 over the depth of the shell (or whatever you prefer) this gives you play in case it walks on you. but you are doing it by hand, so you shouldn't have that problem.
locate were you wanna put the seam and use a straight edge to draw a line down the shell. this will be your starting point. make sure the straight end of the veneer goes down first.there's no overlap like wrap material so it doesn't matter which way you roll.
when rolling the veneer to the shell, make sure its nice and tight. with veneer it will show gaps more than wrap and prone to bubbling later on.ALSO make sure you have a clean surface that your rolling on. if there's a tiny bit of dry glue or tiny scrap wood on the table, it will break the veneer. remember,it real thin.
i was taught to roll the glue on the shell twice. once on the shell, move to the veneer/wrap, back to the shell (once its little tacky) then back to the venner. you don't have to go thick when rolling.its just going to take longer to dry. just make sure its even.it also depends on the weather. if its real hot the glue will set faster.
from here i would sand and seal the outside before i drill the holes out. that way you don't get over spray in the holes again.when the shell and veneer are dry, you will need to feather in the edges by sanding were it meets the venner depending how you did it. i would say do this before you seal it.
as for the edges, i would have to see it...but if your going to recut them then you can get away with cutting the excess veneer off with a knife. if you wanna save the edges, then just be careful when trimming. this way the veneer goes to the edges and it looks cleaner.
as for triming the seam, once you come around to the seam when gluing, have a sharp blade and line up your straight edge with the edges of the UNDER seam. so when you cut the top veneer it should butt up perfectly. again,that's why you need a straight edge underneath to begin with.you might need to use a small roller to press the seam together and make it flush.
i don't know what to use to seal the veneer as i never did it at home-just work. i'm sure someone else knows the answer here.
lay the shell on the face on a hard surface and use a center punch thru the inside to mark a dimple on the outside so you know were to drill. try to center the punch head in the holes. in some cases you can see it, but when you drill the bit will usually fall in line with the original holes.
then takle cleaning the parts. i have a bag of lug screws if you don't wanna clean them. unless they don't need to be cleaned.
Hey all.
I've been busy and my wife is due any day now SO...here is where I'm at.
The heatlock and iron method with paperbacked veneer is incredible in my book. I just followed the directions and was thorough with the ironing (t shirt on the shell). I taped the inside of the shell while doing this, after the ironing was done, I used and exacto knife to cut below the bearing edges on the outside slightly and did my seam which came out better than I thought.
I thought about staining and did a test run and staining bubinga makes no sense (just like others on line said).
I've sanded the seam down and it's in good shape now.
Sanded at 220 lightly and did my first coat of tung oil and then sanded the inside and did a coat as well there.
Since then I've moved to 320 grit and I've done 4 coats. I will continue till I get a close to a gloss with tung as I can.
Very pleased so far with this. I fell like a making a lightsaber.
and the seam.
Bobba Flange...
