THAT looks like it would work perfect! I'll see where I can find such a set...

You could also check a Tractors Supply store or something where they will have needles for horse and cattle! Those work great!!!

Now that's thinking! I live in cow-country so that's a perfect solution...we have more farm supply stores than hardware stores. Terrific idea...thanks!

Concerning that "bubble" any one have any ideas how to prevent cracking? It seems like the wood is pretty well fixed in that bulging position...if I clamp it down it appears as if it will easily crack. Would wetting it ahead of time help without making worse damage or preventing the wood glue from adhering? Any other ideas?

I'd welcome any help!

Here are the serial numbers: (in regards to what the original configuration of this set might have been)

12" - 582701

13" - 628560

16" - 629724

22" - 628434 (virgin)

24" - 629386 (tom mount drilled/installed)

I was wrong about the 22 & 24 being dated the same date...after cleaning I could see they were a couple days apart...but not many - they are both June '68.

Russell

It's likely that this was a music store purchase config, as I previously stated. This would have been a Hollywood or a Big Beat kit with a 24 either ordered special or taken from a kit on hand in the store. The other bass was most likely removed from a kit on hand and just added at the time of purchase.

As you can see, there are so many ways this could have played out that our guessing will really add nothing of substance to the kits heritage. It's just blindly swinging into the wind.

Just wondering if anyone had the chance to look at the pics in post #4 of the bubble/separation inside the bass drum - I was hoping for an idea or two to be able to clamp it down (after getting glue in there :) ) without cracking the wood any worse...as it is now the wood is tight in that position and I fear any clamping will just snap the wood Help2

Thanks in advance for any/all suggestions...

Russell

man thats a toughie

It does look like if you clamp it it will split more/crack.

If you are gonna use a water based wood glue,..maybe you can leave a wet sponge over it for a while and let it soften !! (over night)

Elmers` makes a very good water based glue !!

OK, I read some of this thread, here is how you fix your problem, I've performed this very type of ply separation repair so many times I've lost count, a glue syringe is useless they don't work I had one and returned it, Elmer's is a great glue, but you'll need to use like a titebond wood glue or the professional elmer's glue, both are to thick for any syringe, I took some craftsman precision screwdrivers, ground the front of the screwdriver flat, these are the perfect pry tool for the job of ply separation,

remove the lugs and screws, take the pry tools. lift up the wood then take your glue apply it to the opening, using another screwdriver to push the glue into the separation, let it set up 20 minutes or more, then clamp it. excess glue will squeeze out as you clamp the area wipe the excess glue off with warm water towels, wait 4 to 6 hours your done. sometimes I use a hand held blow dryer to set the glue up faster. I've shown this method to forum member Kevin's and that is Now the way he does it, here are some pics if this helps

Thanks for the step by step! Much obliged! Might you have any suggestion from your experience on how to soften up the bubble before gluing/clamping? I already have the Titebond glue...I just don't want to crack it worse trying to fix it. If I don't get any other ideas I'm going with the damp sponge as that idea seemed pretty sound if done conservatively....