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#11
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BTW -- I got the idea to do this from an article out of an old issue of Not So Modern Drummer magazine. My mind is drawing a blank (like it does sometimes) right now, but if I remember correctly the article was written by Jack Lawton... Again, your drum looks great! Please share more of your "cut down" creations! |
#12
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Very cool looking drum.
I did the same thing with a Ludwig 10X14 marcher. Sounded great and fit in nicely with my kit. |
#13
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Drumjinx,
That looks really good... and the clamps in the first picture sure look familiar. I'm going to be changing buildings here pretty soon, so I'll be able to pick up my shell from the wood-shop. I'll try and get pics up today or tomorrow. Again, your drum looks great, too! And as I said, I love to see others like this! bill |
#14
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Awesome, looks quite similar to my conversion steps! Did you use a steamer to remove the re-ring from the shell scrap or just pull it out with a chisel?
__________________
Revival Drum Shop |
#15
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To those who asked, here are a few more of my cut-down projects. In my opinuion, the best shells to work with are 1960's Ludwig maple/poplar/mahogany marching shells with single point eyelets. They can be cut down into 8x14" drums and the eyelet holes become the top (or bottom) lug hole for a perfectly centered 2 3/8" Ludwig Imperial or Bowtie lug. A close second are Rogers concert toms, 13 14 or 15" in diameter. Pulling the re-ring out of a rogers shell is easy as they weren't glued in with a terrible amount of precision anyway, and using a concert tom means that you have a virgin shell once you cut off the top and move the re-ring down.
The photos below are of two different Ludwig marching shells cut down and turned into propper snares and a Rogers 15" concert tom during the re-ring installation process and once again after gluing down wrap and edging.
__________________
Revival Drum Shop |
#16
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And a couple more. The leftmost image is the first wood hoop cut-down I ever did, and I think it remains the best... the perfect storm of good condition mahogany shell, perfect wood hoops, and easy to clean-up hardware. The black snare was my experimentation with that Minwax stain/clearoat-in-one. Came out kinda satin, but still cool.
__________________
Revival Drum Shop |
#17
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I did indeed use a steamer. Works great and the hoop fit back in like it had always been there.
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#18
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Man, I just pulled mine out with a chisel. Will definately give the steam a try.
Barjack -- thanks! I've got more cut-downs in the works. Last summer I bought out a local music store of over 30 years of percussion trade-ins, mostly school marching equipment. I've made my investment back several times over already, but still have a large amount of 10x14s, 12x14s, 12x15s, and 12x16s left. Plenty to experiment on... without having to worry about spending money or wasting it! |
#19
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barjack that drum looks beautiful - nice job!
The other drums here look great too. Thanks for posting this - good to see that nice WFL take on a new life. I cut down a 30's gretsch 9x13 tom that had a tacked reso head. The drums finish was toast and both ends of the drum (reso and batter) were split in several places all around the shell. I cut it down to about 7" and made a nice tom out of it....replacing the tacked reso with a lugged head. It is a really nice sounding drum. I may make a snare drum out of it some day. I have a 1949 Gretsch 10x14 marching/parade drum that I may do something like what you did with your drum some day. The wood hoops on my drum are absolutley killer. |
#20
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this snare has got to be one of the coolest looking snares ive seen in a long time. now i need to make one. haha thanks for posting it.
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