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  #91  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:13 AM
jccabinets jccabinets is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

Go to hardware store or online and purchase a new " roll pin" Take a small punch and drive the old one out, then new one in.
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  #92  
Old 01-06-2016, 01:44 PM
OddBall OddBall is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Adam McHugh View Post
I know I'm coming in several years too late with this, but I wasn't on here then. Anyway, I posted this on the DFO a little while ago - the pin joining the pedal to the rocker assembly on my Speed King is digging it's way to freedom. Best course of action? I'm thinking to replace the whole rocker assembly. Welding is a possible solution but I don't have the tools or the skills to do it, particularly such a delicate weld. Any thoughts lads?
Ta.
I got a old one and never saw that before. JC is right about a new pin. To fill the keyhole part, smash a fishing weight down to a pin an tap it into the keyhole after the new pin is in, after a short time, it`ll form itself into a good fit and hold the new pin from using the same escape route.

The knuckle can be found quite easily but now you can take your time.
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  #93  
Old 01-06-2016, 06:27 PM
jccabinets jccabinets is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

Great thinking Oddball!
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  #94  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:43 PM
OddBall OddBall is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

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Originally Posted by jccabinets View Post
Great thinking Oddball!
Thanx Jeff, I learned that watching an old guy fix a dent near the window on the rib of my pick-up after a street sign hit it.
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  #95  
Old 02-15-2016, 09:36 PM
Drumsforever Drumsforever is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

All good stuff to know when doing a restoration of the famous Speed King. Thanks for sharing!
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  #96  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:01 AM
neilhazel neilhazel is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

One recommendation I study elsewhere seemed sensible and promising: use warm from a lp or identical flash light to warm up the real estate the cap is pushed into, fostering to not warm the cap as well, so that the development of the real estate would allow the cap to come reduce. But then someone else indicated out that this would harm the colour or the final of the steel, and could harm or high the real estate and/or bearings as well.
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  #97  
Old 09-25-2017, 05:58 AM
8upwithit 8upwithit is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

Quote:
Originally Posted by neilhazel View Post
One recommendation I study elsewhere seemed sensible and promising: use warm from a lp or identical flash light to warm up the real estate the cap is pushed into, fostering to not warm the cap as well, so that the development of the real estate would allow the cap to come reduce. But then someone else indicated out that this would harm the colour or the final of the steel, and could harm or high the real estate and/or bearings as well.
Easy for you to say...
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  #98  
Old 02-01-2018, 01:59 PM
delboydrums delboydrums is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

This thread is great!

Now what I'd really love would be some help similar for fixing up my Tama King Beat pedal.
I'm keen and ready to strip, clean and restore it, but I'd hate to get anything wrong!

Any ideas from anyone who's done this already?

Thanks
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  #99  
Old 02-17-2018, 08:26 PM
vyacheslav vyacheslav is offline
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Default Re: How Do You Restore A Speed King

I just wanted to share my photos and results from my Speed King Restore. I'll give the rundown of what I did:

-Took the foot board off and scrubbed it with a Gold (non-scratching) wire brush and CLR, rinsed with water, then did the same with Windex. Rinsed off again and towel dried. Surprisingly, the hinge at the base of the heel plate looked good, and the holes were not chewed or elongated.

-Took off the end caps (by using the rubber mallet trick) and the spring tension screws (with a lot of lube and strength!) and had to pry out the pistons/springs through the plaster (oops I mean old grease!) by inserting an awl at the piston hole where the axle is and tapping lightly with a hammer until they worked themselves out the bottom. I was able to finagle the bearings out was well, by tapping the "goalpost" with a rubber mallet until they worked themselves out. I put the end caps, bearings, pistons, springs and tension screws in a Snapple bottle filled with paint thinner and let it soak for 24 hours. I wiped away what gunk I could by hand first. Looked like Crisco shortening on the end caps at the axle!

-Took the "chassis" and poured Acetone (Nail Polish remover, but I made sure it was 100% Acetone with no weird ingredients) down the two empty piston shafts and chased it with a stiff bottle brush several times. I then soaked the entire chassis in a bucket of paint thinner, just enough to cover the whole thing and let it soak for 24 hours (yes, it's a lot of paint thinner, but well worth it). I did this and let it soak OUTSIDE! Nasty smelling stuff, and just a drop of paint thinner will make your whole house stink for days! Also, the freezing point of paint thinner is approximately -144 degrees Fahrenheit, so I didn't have to worry about it freezing.

-After 24 hours, I emptied the Snapple bottle into a wire/mesh strainer (like you would use for noodles) and meticulously scrubbed all parts with a wire brush, holding each part with needle nose pliers as I did so. Once they were all very clean, I refilled the Snapple bottle with fresh paint thinner and let them all soak again overnight. As far as the chassis goes, after 24 hours, I took it out, ran a bottle brush up and down the piston shafts several times, then put it back in the bucket to let it soak overnight.

-The next day, I drained the Snapple bottle and everything was very clean. I put them back in the bottle one more time with hot, soapy water, and then thoroughly rinsed and towel dried all the parts. I brushed the shafts of the chassis one more time for good measure and then took it out of the bucket and let it dry naturally outdoors. When it was dry, I brought it back in and used a small wire brush attachment for a Dremel or drill (See Photo 1 below) and ran that up and down the shafts a few times. I then thoroughly rinsed the chassis with hot, soapy water and towel dried it.

You can see from the photos how clean I was able to get everything, particulary the tops of the pistons. Re-assembly was easy. I put in the bearings, sprayed them with lubricant (I use Tri-Flow). I then put the pistons in, sprayed them liberally, put the springs in, sprayed them liberally, and then inserted the spring tension screws. Finally, I gave the bearings one last good spray and put the end caps back on. I then lubricated the heel plate of the foot board, and where the metal hook for the foot board attached to the chassis (anything that moves can eventually squeak!) and then worked it out like crazy. I wiped up the excess, put a brand new beater in, and she works like a dream. Amazing difference. I've always felt "meh" about Speed Kings in the past, but this one is now so smooth like butter, that I might enjoy playing this one! I'm letting sit on paper towels overnight to get any excess drainage, and then it will be gig worthy.

I'm glad I took the time to do this. It's 4000% better than it was when I got it a few weeks ago.

I hope this post helps you all in the future,

V
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Last edited by vyacheslav; 03-11-2018 at 12:27 AM.
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