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Old 04-14-2019, 05:14 PM
vyacheslav vyacheslav is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,496
Default Slingerland Model 804 Flush Base Hi-Hat Stand Repair/Mod


I got this from a friend to complete the hardware for my 1966 Stage Band kit. I modified/repaired it to suit my needs, and wanted to share this with you. SUPER BIG THANKS to idrum4fun (Mark) on sending me the rubber heel pad free of charge (I gladly paid shipping). Thanks buddy!

Photo 1 shows that on these models, the lower pull rod and upper pull rod are permanently attached via a hinged piece of metal that allows the top rod to fold down for transport, as opposed to the normal method of adjoining the upper and lower pull rods, which is a coupling nut and the two rods thread together. I am not a fan of the hinged rods, so this is where my modification came in.

I cut the lower pull rod just below where the riveted hinge "flat piece" was. Photo 1 I found online, but the rest of the photos are from my actual stand. My lower pull rod was shorter than the one pictured in Photo 1. I scrapped the upper pull rod because it as bent and rusty. I then cut 1/4"-20 threading onto the top of the lower pull rod (just below where the hinged piece was). This is shown in Photo 2. The threads I cut are on the right (longer), the threads on the left are factory threads (that screw into the "hook" mechanism that supports the strap). I have done this before, but man was it ever hard to get those thread cuts started! I kept at it for well over 30 minutes and then I was finally able to get my thread die to fully embrace the end of the rod and start cutting. If you choose to do this, patience is the key! By the way, even if the upper pull rod was in good shape, I would've had to cut threads into that as well. Heck with that, I just bought a new one lol!

I then used JB Weld to thread on a coupling nut, as well as a two extra standard nuts. I cut the threads too far down (I guess I was excited that I finally got the cutting started!), so I used the two standard nuts at the bottom as a "buffer", so that the upper pull rod still had plenty of thread to grab onto in the coupling nut (the lower the coupling nut threads onto the lower pull rod, the less thread available for the upper pull rod to grab). I let it sit for a full 24 hours for the JB Weld to cure.
This is shown in Photo 3.

Finally, I reassembled the lower pull rod inside the base tube. I experimented with some nylon spacers on the pull rod to give the spring more /less tension until I found what I liked. After assembly, I thoroughly lubricated the springs and heel plate. Assembly shown in Photo 4.

I added a new Gibraltar Kevlar strap to attach the pedal. When I acquired it, it was a rigged up piece of picture hanging wire! I had to cut the strap a bit narrower to fit into the "hook", but that was easy. A cut a little off each side so the holes would still be centered. I added a new Gibraltar cup/seat for the bottom cymbal, new Gibraltar rubber feet and a new Gibraltar upper pull rod. As I mentioned before, the old one was bent and rusty, plus the new Gibraltar offers a little more length as well (and no thread cutting!). I cleaned and polished it. Photo 5 shows it ready to go. It plays great now, and assembly and transport is much, much easier. I definitely recommend this mod!

Enjoy and thanks again, Mark!
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"The worst thing to happen to drums from the 60's and early 70's was the 80's!"-clubdate64

Last edited by vyacheslav; 04-14-2019 at 05:22 PM.
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